King Pin Replacement - I've hit a snag

[roadsterdude]

This has turned out to be a pretty big job by my standards, but so far I have disassembled everything, took the spindles to a good machine hop and had the new bushings installed and the pins honed to fit, now am assembling everything again.  I replaced shocks wile in there, and installed the new lower pivots. I cannot get the threaded sleave to thread into the upper pivot portion of the new kingpins, and I stopped before I messed something up.  Now I am in head scratching mode.  The BBB shows a drawing of some kind of special tool I am supposed to manufacture, but I do not have a clue how to make it based on the drawing.  My real question is why is this thing so hard to install.  Why has it stopped 60% in and will not budge any further.  I have tried a few "tricks" to thread it further, but I am afraid I am going to ruin something if I use too much more force.  Some of you guys who do trhis all the time, please give me a clue.  I have quit for the day.  Thought I would have a 2-hour "button up", but now at a snag point.  Thanks!

[w113dude]

Hey Mike,

 This is so funny, I was doing the same thing today helping out a friend. ( you and I must be the only ones in North America doing this on this Sunday  )
I used a big fat screw driver, you can also use a large chisel and use it like a screw driver, or something that that will fit the grove nice and snug, then you can thread it in with a good grip, I came across the same problem with the thread rod not going in all the way, I put in the threaded rod from the other side just to make all the threads come in to contact then take it out and put in the right direction.
As for damaging the rod, as long as you are not using any tool to damage the outer or inner threads of the pin you should be fine.

Good luck.

[George Des]

Perhaps a bit of dry ice on the bushing with some lubricant on the female threads may help here. May even be enough to cool the threaded bushing in the freezer for a few hours. At least worth a try.

George

[Benz Dr.]

This makes no sense to me. The threaded slieve screws into to the hole in the pin quite easily because there's normally a lot of play between both parts.
The screw that goes through the slieve is a close fit but it should slide through without forcing.
 Are you talking about the piece that adjusts the caster? I screw it in until it's even on both ends and that's usually just about right because they rarely need to adjust that during the alignment. The caster is a different story but I expect that to be way off after everything has been apart.

[George Des]

Are you using new threaded bushings and bolts? I have seen where ones that have been in use become distorted and are very difficult to install especially on a new king pin.

[roadsterdude]

Yes these are new bushings, bolts and kingpins, so everything should be nice and new/clean.  The threaded bushings just bind when capturing the fmale threads after the unthreaded portion in the middle.  I will try again later today with the advise given so far and let you guys know what happened.  Maybe I am just trying to be too "gentle"

[George Des]

As I recall these threaded bushings have a progressive thread on them so that they will start easily but then get tougher to screw in so that they don't change position once they are set correctly. Others may want to verify this.


George

[paults1]

Call Gernold at SL Tech. He gives free advice. He replaced my king pins. Phone, 207 985 3001.
Paul, 63 230SL

[Fintail]

Hi Roadsterdude

use a g clamp to hold the pan threads in line they spread out so easily as you screw the bolt in also surprisingly new rubber seals push the threads out of line.

All the Best

John

[Benz Dr.]

I'm not aware of any progressive thread. It should screw in without brinding.

[roadsterdude]

I finally gave up and before ruining all my new parts, took it to my machine shop to see if they can install the threaded bushing.  I'll let y'all know what happens and why.  I'm baffled

[George Des]

Dan,

I believe you are right. It's the valve ball pins on the head that I'm thinking of that have the progressive thread so they don't vibrate out of adjustment.

[roadsterdude]

Just an update.  My machine shop could not install them either.  I have returned the parts (febi) to Autohauz AZ for inspection replacement/refund.  I'll let you know what I hear.  I may try the local dealership and take the kingpins in but only after I hear from the vendor. This makes no sense to me, but it is what it is.  Hope to be back on the road soon, and I will update with the final solution.

[roadsterdude]

Another update: Spoke to guy at Autohaus AZ who said they apparently have a "bad batch" of febi upper outer control arm bushings (upper pivot).  He investigated another one a week or so ago, like mine, it refused to thread all the way.  So they have contacted th manufacturer.  Glad it was not just me.  Anyway I called the dealer and can get a kit or $149 each (as opposed to $32 at AH-AZ)  ouch!  OK then I can get the bushing only for $18.  then order the kit with the bad bushing and have $50 each instead of $149 each invested.  Better.  I re-ordered and will have AH-Az inspect prior to shipping.  I'll let y'all know what happens next.

[roadsterdude]

Another update: Received the new parts from AUtohaus AZ.  Indeed the prior part wAS A "BAD BATCH"  The new bushings screw in very freely.  I thought I was going crazy!  Watch out if you have purchased the upper pivot kit (Fibi) recently.  You too might have a bad batch of threaded bushings!