Tilted rear end?

[n/a]

The back end of my 230 is a little tilted, that is, the left side is about 1-2 inches lower than the right side (measured fender to top of tire, very rough estimate).  I looked under the car and looked at the wear of the rubber parts, and while they all looked in need of replacement, they all seem to be worn the same.  I'm guessing it could be the shock, but are there any other probable causes?  

As an aside, while I was down there, I found that the left rear brake was leaking...I'm guessing the trick is to just go through and replace all the seals and rubber parts, and by then everything will be fine.

Dan

1965 230 SL Euro 4 speed
2004 230 SLK

[J. Huber]

Hi Dan. Please wait for the experts to weigh in but I have a couple thoughts. The leak near the brakes may mean you need a new rear cylinder. They are not too expensive but they are important. It's not good when anything leaks on or near your brake shoes...I'd have a closer look soon.

As for the tilt, could it be spring-related? I don't know if shock failure would create such a discrepancy...

Good luck

James
63 230SL

[n/a]

James,

Thanks for the thoughts.  I did open up the drum and it looks like the leak is coming out of the cylinder, or at least out of behind the cylinder.  I haven't taken anything apart yet.

As for the rear tilt, if it were spring-related, what would I look for?  Could it be the spring itself or more likely the upper/lower spring seats?

Thanks for any help,

Dan

1965 230 SL Euro 4 speed
2004 230 SLK

[hauser]

How about the spring pads? Have you checked those?

1969 280sl 5 spd        1999 ML320          Gainesville,Fl.

[George Davis]

Dan,

the problem could be at the left rear or right front.

At the front, make sure the suspension moves freely, just to eliminate the possibility that it's binding somehow.  Probably be worth checking to be sure the right rear suspension isn't binding, too.

At the rear compare both sides to each other.  As mentioned, check the spring pads, but also check the lower spring mounts for damage, and the bushings at both ends of the control arms that attach below the axle.  Bushing failure would lower things a bit.  Springs don't sag very often, but you could measure the distance from coil to coil and it should be the same on both sides.  Shocks shouldn't make much difference, but you could pull the bottom eyes off to see if they are both pressurized about the same if nothing else shows up.

Good luck!

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[Benz Dr.]

Rear brake cylinders are 3/4 inch and hard to clean out if they're rusty at all. You can pull the cylinder without removing the shoes.
I use new parts when it comes to brakes. Check all of the lines and hoses and replace them if they look suspect.

Daniel G Caron

[n/a]

Thanks for all the help.  Here's the latest,

I pulled and rebuilt the rear brake cylinder and it seems to have done the trick.  No leaks and the car stops very well, better than ever.

I also had another, closer look at the rear suspension and the only thing that looks different between the left and right is the condition of the bushings on the control arms.  Would these be the same as thurst arm or trailing arm bushings?  The left one looks pretty beat up and the right looks pretty good.  Everything else seems to have pretty even wear.  Are these things hard to replace?  It seems like the spring would have to come off as well, so should the spring pads be replaced too?

Again, thanks for all the help.


Dan

1965 230 SL Euro 4 speed
2004 230 SLK

[George Davis]

Hi Dan,

all those names apply (thrust arms, control arms, trailing arms) to the same parts.  The arm is removed by undoing the front end (supporting the arm with a jack), lowering it slowly until the spring comes out, and then unbolting from the axle.  Some guys have had luck with those bolts and bushings, but mine were so tight I couldn't move them so I took it to a shop.  The mechanic used a 6 ft cheater and all of his weight to get them loose.  Guess it varies from car to car.  Good time to replace the bushings at the front end of the arm, and spring pads if needed.  Polyurethane bushings for the axle end are available somewhere if you're so inclined, but I can't comment on them.

Reinstalling is the reverse of removal, but you'll need something to pilot the front bushings back onto their mounts.  The manual shows a tapered cone, but I've seen someone say they used a piece of pipe of the right diameter.

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[Cees Klumper]

I bought polyurethane bushings for my suspension but when I installed the large 'hockey-puck / donut-style' large round discs for the fronts of the trailing arms, I found they transmitted too much vibration onto the chassis, so I put the old rubber ones back in. I found that, with a helper to manipulate the axle, and the use of a proper-diameter pipewrench, it is not too difficult to position the arms to slip on. Make sure you orient the rubber discs right-side-up (they are marked since it is not obvious).

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic