Author Topic: Neutral Safety Switch  (Read 4524 times)

bpossel

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Neutral Safety Switch
« on: July 12, 2004, 06:14:28 »
I have a 1971 280SL Automatic.
Recently the cable for the neutral safety switch came loose.  I tracked it to where it connects to the shift linkage area under the car (very tight area and hard to get your hand into.  Turns out that the "c" clip was missing.  The only way I could reconnect the cable was to disconnect the cable on the switch on the firewall.  Once I connected the cable at the shift linkage, I could not reconnect at the switch end, even with the screw adjustments at the switch end of the cable.

Can someone please tell me detailed instructions on the proper way to "replace, ect." this cable.  Then, what is the proper procedure to ensure that the safety switch and reverse lights are in order?  Note: the Haynes manual is very weak in this area.

Thank you!
Bob Possel
Memphis, TN.
1971 Light Beige, Cognac, 82k miles

ja17

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Re: Neutral Safety Switch
« Reply #1 on: July 12, 2004, 21:59:39 »
Hello Bob,
The cable is replaced with it's housing. The working space below is very cramped. The cable and housing is held in place by a single bolt as I recall. The C clip must be removed also. The cable at the firewall pops off the switch and can be removed after the jamb nut is loosened. Adjust the newly installed cable by adjusting the cable end at the switch. You may want to start by putting the car in reverse (not running ignition on) Move the swithc until the reverse lights come on. Adjust the cable end until the ball socket snaps on the linkage ball without moving the switch. Check to make sure the car starts in park or nuetral only and adjust the cable end as needed. Be prepard to brake the car if it starts in gear before the adjustments are final!

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

bpossel

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Re: Neutral Safety Switch
« Reply #2 on: July 13, 2004, 04:55:49 »
Hi Joe,

Thanks for the reply!

Here is what is "odd".  When I did reconnect the cable under the car at the shift linkage.  Also ensured that the bolt that holds the cable at the transmission area was secure, etc.  When I try to connect the ball joint at the switch end, there doenst seem to be enough cable.  When I do get it connected, there doesnt seem to be any slack in the cable and I cant shift the car all the way into "Park", it only will go as far as "Reverse".  I know that the previous owner replaced the cable and switch ~1 year ago.  I also know it was working, until the "c" clamp broke and the cable became disconnected.  The cable doenst seem to be bent in any way or binding in any way as I trace it down from the firewall and under the car.  Do you think that I need to adjust the shift linkage at the transmission, under the car?  

Any add'l advice and comments are appreciated.  fyi...  originally from Dayton, Ohio and lived in Cincinnati for years.  Thanks, Joe!



quote:
Originally posted by ja17

Hello Bob,
The cable is replaced with it's housing. The working space below is very cramped. The cable and housing is held in place by a single bolt as I recall. The C clip must be removed also. The cable at the firewall pops off the switch and can be removed after the jamb nut is loosened. Adjust the newly installed cable by adjusting the cable end at the switch. You may want to start by putting the car in reverse (not running ignition on) Move the swithc until the reverse lights come on. Adjust the cable end until the ball socket snaps on the linkage ball without moving the switch. Check to make sure the car starts in park or nuetral only and adjust the cable end as needed. Be prepard to brake the car if it starts in gear before the adjustments are final!

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio



bpossel
1971 280SL
Automatic, Light Beige, Cognac

bpossel

  • Guest
Re: Neutral Safety Switch
« Reply #3 on: July 18, 2004, 06:38:29 »
Hi Joe,

Update...  What seemed to have happened is that my left side engine mount had collapsed.  I ended up replacing both engine mounts, as well as the transmission mount.  Also installed a new neutral switch cable, since the original one seemed to be bent.  It took 8 hours for the entire job, but was worth it!  All is now in working order.
Thanks again!
Bob

quote:
Originally posted by ja17

Hello Bob,
The cable is replaced with it's housing. The working space below is very cramped. The cable and housing is held in place by a single bolt as I recall. The C clip must be removed also. The cable at the firewall pops off the switch and can be removed after the jamb nut is loosened. Adjust the newly installed cable by adjusting the cable end at the switch. You may want to start by putting the car in reverse (not running ignition on) Move the swithc until the reverse lights come on. Adjust the cable end until the ball socket snaps on the linkage ball without moving the switch. Check to make sure the car starts in park or nuetral only and adjust the cable end as needed. Be prepard to brake the car if it starts in gear before the adjustments are final!

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio



bpossel
1971 280SL
Automatic, Light Beige, Cognac
« Last Edit: July 18, 2004, 06:39:14 by bpossel »

ja17

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Re: Neutral Safety Switch
« Reply #4 on: July 18, 2004, 19:57:38 »
Good job Bob,
I am sure you will feel the difference in those new engine mounts. It will be a lot easier next time!
Joe

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback