Fuel Injection Pipe Removals

[IXLR8]

Hi--

Is there an easy way to remove the fuel injector pipe fittings next to the intake manifold?

My tube fitting wrench doesn't make it down in there very well.

Do I need to remove the intake manifold to get at these fittings? (Please, say NO)

Thanks in advance for your usual kind advice.

Joe

[georgem]

Hi Joe,

You can undo the fitting on the injector lines quite easily if you are prepared to make a special tool. I made this special tool by buying a cheap 17mm ring spanner and cutting a slot in the ring wide enough to allow the fuel injection delivery pipes to slide through it. Hey presto your first MB special tool.

I wish I could claim invention rights to the tool but it wasn`t an original thought - I am sure I have read it on this site at some time.

Cheers

George
230sl
Brisbane

[280SE Guy]

I would recommend using a 12 point crowfoot wrench of the proper size for the injector nuts. You can remove the valve cover for additional clearance if needed.

Regards,

280SE Guy

[jaymanek]

You can buy the correct brake union type spanners for next to nothing, I got a complete set for 20gbp from eBay.

[IXLR8]

Hi--

Thanks for the suggestions.

My issue was clearance to get the wrench foot around the fitting.

Removing the valve cover is SO obvious, I can't believe it. I almost ended up with a greasy palmprint when I slapped my forehead!

Joe

[280SE Guy]

Congratulations on your shazam !

I would still recommend on getting the correct 12 point crowfoot for the installation and bleeding of your injection lines while the valve cover is in place while someone cranks the motor for you (with the coil wire out of the distributor cap and grounded) when you replace the lines. Crank the starter a max 20 seconds at a time for fuel to show up at each injector line while you tighten the line nuts and wait 30 - 45 seconds or so in between cranks to allow the starter to cool. Place paper towels under the injectors to soak up the gas that escapes the connection. Have a fire extinguisher handy just in case.

Regards,

280SE Guy

[ja17]

Hello,

Yes, with the valve cover off a good 17mm standard wrench works fine. Even on the injection pump, a standard wrench will work. You just start from the back and unfasten  the nut, then slide it up onto the line and out of the way.  Move on to the next one and do the same.   

With that said, I do have the factory injection line tool and various other special "crows foot tools" which are expensive and not necessary. Sometimes they do make the job a little easier.

[wwheeler]

Sorry to reply to such an old thread. I saw this post when I was researching bleeding my injector lines. One tool I found that works very well without taking the valve cover off is the 17mm valve adjusting tool. It is a Hazet "crow foot" socket (2768-1)  and MB part number #110 589 00 01 00. I believe can be bought from the Classic Center. Some will already have this tool for valve adjusting. Works great!

[Jonny B]

There is a specific injector tool MB 000 589 68 03 00. I finally found this on ebay. Photo attached.

[wwheeler]

Is that tool for the injectors or the fittings on the injection lines? The injector line nuts are 17mm while injectors themselves are 19mm.

If it was 17mm, I wonder if it would work on the IP fittings so you could just take one off and not all of the lines in front of the one you need.

[Jonny B]

The tool is for the 17 mm for the fittings and not the injectors. Yes it works just great for the IP to check the lines you are concerned about.

[wwheeler]

Thanks Johnny! I saw one on ebay for $90 dollars!!!!!! I also asked the Classic Center and they have it (1 week delivery) for around $40. This tool might also be handy for all of the 17mm hose fittings that abound in the engine bay. Better than rounded hex fittings on the fuel lines. You can never have enough tools to do it right on these cars.

[66andBlue]

For $40? It would be totally amazing if Daimler for once were cheaper than the manufacturer. 
A Hazet 4550-3 (17mm / 3/8' drive) sells for at least double, and a Hazet 4550-1 (17mm / 1/2" drive) for a lot more.
Hazet p/n 4550-2 is the 19mm 1/2" drive tool for the injectors.

[Jonny B]

Not sure if it would be the tool of choice for a bunch of other engine work as you suggest. I was speaking with Dave Gallon about this and he indicated this was not one of the most robust tools. Great for the injection lines though. For the hoses and fittings, a proper flare nut wrench is usually the best bet.

[ja17]

Hello Jonny,

Yes, I have that Hazet tool also. It is great for getting at any individual IP line fitting. I also use a special MB crowsfoot tool which came in the original factory tool kit of a 300SL. It works well also. If I am going for a complete removal, often times I just use a standard 17mm open end wrench. Work from  back toward the front. As each fitting is unfastened slide the 17mm fitting  up the line and out of the way, and move to the next one. Quite simple and faster than messing around with any awkward crows foot.

For the 19mm  injection pump fittings, I use a standard 19mm deep six point socket (1/2 inch drive).  You may have to search around for a good quality socket with thin wall and deep enough.

Yes, standard "line wrenches" are a must for brake lines, hoses other fittings etc., but no use on the IP since there is no room to use them.