Author Topic: Resurrection Blues  (Read 3252 times)

Joe

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Resurrection Blues
« on: August 01, 2013, 21:22:55 »
I got the 280sl running and have a couple of problems. The car starts easily and revs nicely, albeit a bit slowly at first. However, when I drive it, the car barely gets above 25 mph in any gear. When driving, I put in the clutch, and it revs ok. The valves are set correctly, the car coasts OK, and the timing is OK.
I checked the FI pump rack with a 5mm bolt and, while I could push the rack, I couldn't seem to get the bolt to screw into the rack.
Any ideas are welcomed.
The second problem is that the engine heats up too fast and too high. I suspect a stuck thermostat.
 The car has sat for two years. I drained the gas and added fresh. The plugs are new. The oil is fresh and no water is present in the oil.
Thanks,
Joe in Colorado

garymand

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Re: Resurrection Blues
« Reply #1 on: August 01, 2013, 21:31:06 »
My 280 doesn't have threaded hole in the rod as in the 250.  It is not drilled and tapped. (I just saw the it 'coasts OK') If its not friction, it must be motor output.   I've no experience with this symptom.  I'd investigate the gas too.  Does the FP sound different?  filter, pressure regulators, flow rate and pressure.
« Last Edit: August 02, 2013, 20:50:55 by garymand »
Gary
Early 250SL German version owned since 71, C320, R350, 89 Porsche 944 Turbo S

ctaylor738

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Re: Resurrection Blues
« Reply #2 on: August 02, 2013, 19:56:02 »
First thing I would do is a fuel delivery volume test - lots of posts on how it's done.

What plugs did you use?

Did you set the dwell?
Chuck Taylor
1963 230SL #00133
1970 280SL #13027 (restored and sold)
1966 230SL #15274 (sold)
1970 280SL #14076 (sold)
Falls Church VA

Joe

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Re: Resurrection Blues
« Reply #3 on: August 06, 2013, 03:03:00 »
Thanks for the advice.
I did a fuel volume test, which was surprisingly easy, and found the return line spurt out the required one liter in 15 seconds, at the tank.
I am using WR9DC plugs, gapped to .034".
The brake fluid was very dirty, so I sucked it all out with a kit that attaches to an air compressor. I was able to turn all four wheels by hand, with the car elevated. The front and one of the rear were difficult, but did turn. I ordered four new rubber hoses and new pads for the front (the rear are drum and ok).
I was able, with two large screwdrivers, to easily move the pads on the calipers. Both pads moved evenly on each caliper. The hoses are less than $7 each on rockauto.com.
As I have put on a Crane kit, there is no dwell to set.
I'll flush the clutch, too.
I ordered a 87-degree thermostat and a new tie rod to replace one with a worn end.
Question: If I measure the old tie rod with a tape measure and make the new one the same length, is that close enough to avoid an alignment?
Hopefully the car will be on the road before the snows come!
Joe

rb6667

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Re: Resurrection Blues
« Reply #4 on: August 06, 2013, 13:47:17 »
Joe, Yes you can measure the tie rod once it's off the car and match the new tie rod to it.  I've used a "shadetree Mechanic" trick in the past on this.  Lay the entire tie rod on a 2' X 4'.  Make marks with a fine black magic marker in the exact center of the threaded stud on the board.  Match up the new one to these marks.  It will not be exact, but close enough to get you to the shop for a final setting on the toe.

RB6667