control arm pivot woes :'(

[JosephBach]

found play at 12 and 6 on both wheels, turn out both pivots were bad.
upon a more depth inspection, the lower pivot bolts are rusted solid into the lower trunions. and the lower CA pivot holes are egg shaped

 need some opinion. Am i correct in thinking the control arm ends and pivot bolt itself,  (for however long) have been acting as the lower pivot? since the bolt can no longer move inside the trunion, right? and thus, rapidly wearing the ends?

I'm assuming yes, new CA's are needed. but new ones are 1.5k :O

SO my other question is... I have access to several  W111, Of same year, subframe assemblys. will a good used control arm set off a sedan suffice?


heres the evidence. please excuse the iphone quality

[badali]

I saw a complete sub frame on ebay for $400.  Here is the listing

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221286019484?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

[garymand]

Yes the parts are shared. 

[JosephBach]

great!thats what i wanted to hear
 off to the salvage yard this weekend for some harvesting, some good 127 engine parts there ill have to snag too.

[GGR]

Be careful not to hurt yourself when you free the load on the springs. Put a jack under the lower control arm and use the weight of the car.

[George Des]

There are lots of little tricks to doing this job in a way that you won't "kill" yourself. The BBB shows a rod arrangement that is used to raise and lower the control arm in a way that the spring is decompressed and compressed in a way that it properly centers the pivot arm in a safe manner. I've found the best way to do this is toe find two smooth steel rods about 12mm in diameter. As a added safety precaution, I take a 12mm die and thread the lower inch or so of the rod so I can put a large nut on the end. A jack is used to raise and lower the control arm and the pivot will ride on the rods to help center it. It will not work quite as well with all thread because the threads tend to catch and the rods will eventually ride to a point where they hit the accessories inside the engine bay and prevent the arm for moving further. I did this job on the left side last Spring and I'm dreading doing it on the right side because of all the obstructions on that side of the engine and the difficulty in accessing the mounting bolts and lock plates for the upper pivot. Anyone know a good way?

[Benz Dr.]

The best way to do this is to go to a shop that does this kind of work and have them compress the spring. They will put straps around the center coils to hold the spring in a cpmpressed state. Fit the spring into the lower control arm and bolt it into place. You can now cut the straps holding the spring and remove the remaining pieces. Very safe and quickly done.


Compressed springs can and do kill people every year.  '' You feel lucky today, punk? '' ( Dirty Harry )

[garymand]

Yeah, I remember looking at mine back in about 1975.  I started it once and it got crazy hairy.  I decided to take a nap and when I woke up the urge had faded.  It hasn't gotten worse.  It would be nice to replace the joint, but it is way down my list.  It was a similar experience with the rear compensator spring.  Some thngs a best left to a better day.