Subframe mount centering

[mnahon]

I changed the subframe mounts on my car this weekend. It was a big job; but it went more or less as others have described in other threads. The big difficulty is getting everything to line up on reassembly.

One of the things I've found, now that it's all back together, is that the right mount appears not quite centered when viewed from above. Below are two pictures: the left one is pretty close to centered; but the right one is skewed toward the front/inside of the car. I've tried a bunch of ways to get it to shift, with no luck. I am wondering if others who have done this job have had this issue; or if maybe it will fix itself with once I drive the car and it settles itself out; of if I should be concerned and do something now. Since it's -20C outside, it's not Pagoda weather. I don't expect to get a chance to drive it for 2-3 months.

Thanks for any help or suggestions you might have.

[stickandrudderman]

If your sub-frame is bent it will cause this.
I'm not saying yours is, just that it is a possibility.
An easy check is to compare the distance between the forward edge of the tyre and the fender on both sides (left & right).
Usually about three fingers but I've seen plenty where I can get two fingers in one side and three the other.
Of course, once your suspicion is aroused a wheel alignment check will reveal all.

[ja17]

Looks like the front caster adjustment could also throw the position out a bit. Assuming yours is an SL, are you aware that your "stop plates" are missing?

[garymand]

I just went through this 2 weeks ago.  Your pictures show one tower pulled toward the front?  2 things: first disconnect the cross link.  Mine was off by 3 or 4 turns.  Second, my caster adjusting bolts were jacked, literally.  One side was operational and just needed some spray oil.  The other was messedup.  The cam head wasn't engaged in the cam hole, so it wasn't capable of setting the caster at all.  I looked because I took it in for a front end alignment and the kid had no idea what those bolts did and all i could remember was the little cster adjustmwnt in the kingpin crossbolt.  

Loosen all 4 nuts and rotate the adjuster bolts to make sure the cams are correctly seated.  I had to take mine apart to understand the mechanics and loosely refit with oiled cams.  As you rotate the cam bolts with a big Cresent wrench, that side of the subframe should smootly move fore and aft.  I centered the cams bolt flats parallel to the body and then rotated each side 25% with the wrench handle pointing to the same area of the bumper on each side.  The flats were aligned toward opposite corners of the bumper, like to the head lights.  Lock them down.  you should have the same thread exposure on both sides.  Then adjust the cross link so the bolt easily drops through the crosslink hole.  Then get the FE aligned.

[mnahon]

Thanks for the responses.

Colin, I tend to doubt that the subframe is bent. It was all fine before I took it apart, so it must have something to do with how I put it back together.

Joe, yes, I know the stop plates are missing; it's just till I get this problem sorted out and to be able to take the pictures showing the problem.

Gary, I think you're on the right track because when I changed the subframe mounts, I also took the opportunity to change the swaybar bushings and the bushings in the front leaf springs. At the time I took everything apart, I hadn't realized that those two large bolts that hold the swaybar in place have this fore-aft adjustment, and I probably threw it out of whack in the disassembly.

I understand your explanation and it makes sense; I'll proceed as you suggest. Just to be sure I understand one point: the adjustment of the cam bolt on one side is the mirror image of the other side, correct? So when you say I turn each by 25%, you mean I rotate one clockwise by 25%, and the other one counterclockwise?

Thanks...I have to say that this group is amazing. I've done a lot of work on British cars in the past, including full engine rebuild etc. I've owned my Pagoda for 20 years; and although I did a few things on it here and there, I tended to bring it in for more complicated stuff, because I thought it was beyond me. Earlier last year, I finally had the courage to go through Joe's linkage tour in the hope of fixing a problem I'd had since I bought the car (rough running past 3000 rpm). In the 20 years of ownership, I had brought it in to 3 or 4 'experts', who had accomplished nothing on that issue. The linkage tour showed me that a a few items were totally off, like the throttle valve opening at idle. After completing the linkage tour, the car ran amazingly well. Since then, I'm a convert. It inspired me to get the car into near-perfect shape mechanically. Still lots to do, but I'm really looking forward to my next drive. Thanks again.

[garymand]

Good to hear.  Peak the cam bolts movement, Apex, most forward.  Then rotate either way off the peak.  I chose to aim for some place on some place near the right bumper mount.  Then did the same on the left.  So they are "toed-out" like right +15 degrees and left -15 degrees, until I can get it in for alignment, I figure that is close.  You could go the same direction if you can find the same rotation on each side.  Its just eye-balled for now but a lot better than the messed up orientation I left it in 30 years ago.  I admit it, I learn from mistakes.