attaching leather on soft top boot lid

[mmizesko]

Hi Folks,

My project is moving along nicely, and we are putting the leather on the soft top boot lid.  I am not using foam, so my question is this:  Does one adhere the edges of the leather to the front lip first, and then stretch the leather up to the metal arc stay and clip it down last, or does one work it back to front???

Please advise asap please.

Mike Mizesko
Columbus, OH

[rutger kohler]

Hi, you might send a PM to Andy Burns, he has looked at this.  He has stripped the old stuff off and will be doing his sometime soon I think. I am waiting for him to finish his softtop hatch cover and I am going to copy him as I live only 10 km away.  Your car looks like mine is the paint Dunkel Grun (dark green) and what colour is your upholstery?

cheers

Rodger

[andyburns]

Hey Mike,  I have just done mine with advice from a pro and he suggested gluing from the rear and working forward.  The problem I had was the two 90 degree corners on inner part of the U.  I ended up destroying the first piece of leather when a notch I cut right in the corner tore.  I went back for more advice and was told to never cut a notch in the corner but a cm either side.  Also to 'work' the leather much more before attempting the last stretch.  I used a heat gun and repetitively heated and kneaded the leather at least a dozen times before I attempted the stretching.  Following these suggestions I had no problems.    The rest of the cutting and gluing is easy even for a novice.  Just take your time on the corners.    I will try and get some photos up soon.

[andyburns]

Mike,

Another piece of advice, whatever you do dont use open cell foam.  It deteriorates badly with heat in a very short time.  The hatch cover by nature gets hammered with heat.  I actually finished mine and had this pointed out to me so it all back apart again and been done with 5mm closed cell foam.  If you dont use foam you will see the lip the steel insert band creates.   Closed cell foam is also much more forgiving to work with and wont tear or pull apart as easily.  It can also be sanded to the desired contour.  Highly recommend.   Ended up using this on the dash and rear quarter panels.

[mmizesko]

Thanks guys,

Rodger, I'm Cognac all leather with a tan German Canvas top.  But I'm Dark Olive 291H.

Andy,  I wasn't going to use the foam, but now I remember the weird edge bay the back mold, that eventually cracked o the leather I took off (which was factory).  I'm so confused.  I'll have to consult Obi Wan, (Joe Alexander).

Really appreciate the prompt response from down under.....

Alfred, I know you did this... want to weigh in?

Mike

[66andBlue]

Mike,
no matter what foam you use - closed or open - it must be high temperature foam otherwise it will deteriorate fast if you park your open car frequently in the sun.
Andy may have had luck with 5mm foam but I think that is too thick, I prefer ~3mm. Also, the foam is glued to the metal not to the leather!
I do not try to install the leather wrinkle free initially, that is, stretch and pull to make it so. I use a mister and wet the leather on the back side, especially in the two U corners.  After I am done I park the car in the sun a few days and let the heat shrink the leather, no problem to do this here in SoCal, but perhaps it is in Ohio. 
To get rid of the last remaining wrinkles I use a hair dryer to shrink the leather as shown.