Suspension is nose up

[gcw206]

I am a new member, and have just completed an all new suspension on my 1969 280SL (except for the 5 springs).  The shocks, all rubber, bushings, motor mounts, flex disk; anything that moved was redone.  This was a lot of bang for the buck; now it drives very tight and true.  HOWEVER, now she sits "nose high" by a factor of +1".  Probably not a huge deal (nobody notices but me), and I am not sure if it was like this before I started (therefore I have no base line for comparison), but after all of this work, it is an irritant.  I have what I believe to be a simple corrective option:  The rear spring bottom supports are set at Number 2 (middle adjustment).  Could I move the bottom plates to the higher setting, and gain something in rear ride height?  Would this severely alter the rear camber (presently the rear camber is correct)? OR, should I just live with it as is?  Any ideas would be helpful before I tear things apart again.

[GGR]

Hi,

Adjusting ride height is described in the Workshop Manual. With all the work you already did, I guess you already have it. If not, it's an excellent investment for future repairs and maintenance.

The camber in the back should be around 0.

In the front, height is determined by the angle of the lower control arm. Adjustment is done by replacing the rubber pads on top of the front springs which come in various thicknesses for that purpose. Your current ones may be a bit too thick.

I would rather correct the height in the front rather than lift the rear as you may end up with positive camber which is not best for handling.

[gcw206]

I replaced all of the spring mount pads (front and rear) with the same ones that came out; however, there is absolutely no guarantee that, in the past almost 50 years, someone else wasn't in there before me.  In other words, they could have been wrong, and I could have replaced the wrong ones with a brand new set of incorrect pads.  The paint codes on the springs were long gone, so I did the best I could with what I had.  I suspect that the new shocks had a hand in this (I saw that on one of the posts), and that they are keeping the nose high.  Anyway, it is what it is, and I think that getting the rear correct is of primary importance.  Ok, I will see what I can do in the front, and go from there. 
Thanks,  Galen

[GGR]

Billstein shocks are charged with gas and keep the car higher compared with other socks.

All rubbers being new, you should drive the car a bit as it may end up sitting more properly after a while when all new mounts have bedded properly.

Sprigs of different stiffness in combination with shims of different thicknesses were fitted depending on the car's options which added weight. If your car had some of these options removed it may sit higher.

These shims are part of the adjustment procedure. What is correct to the car is the ride height, not necessarily the thickness of the shim.

[stickandrudderman]

I'm curious to know why you haven't changed the springs. I have a spring rate tester and they are nearly always below spec when I test old ones. New and CORRECT RATE springs will most likely have a dramatic effect on your ride height and I ALWAYS check spring rates when doing any suspension work. Installing new rubbers with weakened springs is poor practice at best.
Be advised that genuine Mercedes springs are NOT the best option for spring rate accuracy.

[Mike K]

I've recently undertaken the same exercise, replacing shocks with 4 new Bilsteins, all the rubbers and 5 springs, sway bar rubbers and steering shock absorber.

Prior to doing this work my car was originally sitting lower at the back.
Front measurement from center of hub cap star to bottom of fender lip was: 36.5cm (14.4in) both sides.
Rear measurement from center of hub cap star to bottom of fender lip was:  34cm (13.4in) both sides.

I replaced the front rubbers with 27.5mm rubbers and the rear with 30mm rubbers.
The car now sits even all round at 35.5cm (14in) from center of hub cap star to bottom of fender lip all around.
It's like driving a different car; ride, handling, cornering etc. all much improved!

On removing the old springs it was obvious how much the old springs had compressed compared to the new ones.
The rubbers were trashed and split.

if I understand your post correctly you did not replace the springs?
If so, I suspect this could be part of your problem.

FWIW after doing the first front spring, I found that by removing all the shocks prior to installing the new springs, made everything so much easier and painless. Especially when it came to raising
and lining up the lower wishbone back into place with the new springs.

Apologies for the iPhone pic & angle.

Best,
Mike

[gcw206]

Correct, I did not replace the springs; but from your photo, it is painfully clear that I should have.  One picture is worth a thousand words. Should I use the stock MBZ springs, or should I go to an aftermarket?  Who sells a good aftermarket product? 
Thanks for all of the help,
Galen

[stickandrudderman]

Be advised that genuine Mercedes springs are NOT the best option for spring rate accuracy.

SLS in Germany sell springs that match the specs exactly.

[Mike K]

I bought my springs from SLS. They do not have the colour coding of the original springs, which is not an issue.
I'm sure there must be several vendors in the US who stock the springs.
Best,
Mike