M130 cold start / poor cold idle condition - later car

[scoot]

First of all I just know I'm going to get in trouble with the moderator on this post because the engine is NOT in a Pagoda.  Having said that, it is also not in a W11x car so maybe this will be OK here.

Second, I have read the Engine Starting Aid Tour more than once and I think I have a good understanding of the background.

The engine is an M130.980 with automatic transmission, engine number is 058065.
I have verified the following:

1.  There is neither a start solenoid nor a shut off solenoid on the injection pump itself.  This seems consistent with the Engine Starting Aid Tour.
2.  I am unable to find the Thermo Time Switch.  It is neither screwed into the block nor on the pod between spark plugs 2 and 3.
3.  The CSV is present but I don't think it's related since the problem isn't limited to starting.  It runs like crap for several minutes.

I am most likely to go down the path of evaluating the WRD (thermostat on top of the injection pump) as discussed in the Engine Starting Aid Tour and in the BBB.   

I am most confused because I think I should be finding a Thermo Time Switch and I'm not finding it.

If I look in EPC for a 280SL I find what I think is the Thermo Time Switch with part numbers 0015459224 or 0065451424.  I can also find this for the 280SE under engine cooling system.   But I can't find it on my car.

Thoughts?
BTW, it runs excellent when warm.
Scott

[ja17]

Scoot, Is the thermo  time switch screwed directly into the head, near spark plug number 5?

[scoot]

Scoot, Is the thermo  time switch screwed directly into the head, near spark plug number 5?

No, but I think I found it.  See attached.
It seems to be on a pipe running from the block around to the other side of the engine, I'm guessing to output from water pump.

[scoot]

...and on a related note, here are pics of the relays.   And of the place on the intake where the switch/wires would be going to the 3 position solenoid on the automatic transmission if it were the 16 bolt automatic instead of the 4 bolt.  Shouldn't there be something covering this or is it just left naked?

[ja17]

Hello Scoot,

Ah yes!  This sedan engine has the add-on factory coolant by-pass kit installed. In this case the Thermo time switch is moved from the head to the by-pass tube. One end of the by-pass tube is installed where the TTS was.  This is Version 5 starting aids with no solenoids on the injection pump. There is a Cold Start Valve on the intake manifold so the Thermo Time Switch is used for this starting aid as usual. With a four bolt pan transmission, no three position solenoid is used on the transmission. Thus, the venturi  intake switch is not needed. The automatic transmission has no vacuum input like the pagoda 16 bolt pan automatic transmission. The only external input to the automatic transmission is the position of the linkage rod going to it. Changing the length of the linkage rod going back to the transmission, will change the timing of the upshifts and down shifts.

[scoot]

Ah yes!  This sedan engine has the add-on factory coolant by-pass kit installed. In this case the Thermo time switch is moved from the head to the by-pass tube. One end of the by-pass tube is installed where the TTS was. 

Good.  So my car isn't some sort of Frankenstein modification...

This is Version 5 starting aids with no solenoids on the injection pump. There is a Cold Start Valve on the intake manifold so the Thermo Time Switch is used for this starting aid as usual. With a four bolt pan transmission, no three position solenoid is used on the transmission. Thus, the venturi  intake switch is not needed.

It seems like there should be a plate or something covering where the venturi intake switch would be, no?

Something odd -- Both last night and this morning cold start worked pretty much fine and cold idle worked fine.  Did the problem "fix" itself?

I have another thought about the amount of surface rust on LOTS of the under-hood surfaces (see picture that shows injection tube connection to injection pump for instance).  I was thinking about taking 5 gallons of Evap-o-rust and setting it up with a pump and misters with a kiddy-pool beneath to collect the Evapo-o-rust and circulating it for a day.  Any thoughts, or other suggestions for treating the generalized surface rust under the hood without removing every single part that has it?