LED Option for Instrument Lights

[Hans2012]

I will shortly have my gauges removed for refurbishment and would like to address the dim lighting situations somehow.  It seems that higher wattage bulbs may encourage the fogging issue that is normal with our cars.  I would appreciate comments as to whether there is a good LED solution.

Thanks
John

[Artur]

The best solution...

[Jonny B]

This is a subject discussed on the forum, try the "search" tab to find the info you need. A good friend of mine just updated his instruments, and the reviews are a bit mixed. You also have to be careful which bulbs you replace, the alternator red light has to be kept in place, to insure proper operation of the alternator itself (the electrical folks can jump in on this one). You also have to be specific about the color of the LED for the place it is going to be installed, since the LED's have a very specific light spectrum, vs the incandescent bulbs.

[wwheeler]

That bulb looks interesting but 4000K is not warm white. That is cool white and what is standard for fluorescent tube bulbs. Incandescent would be about 2700K and halogen would be 3000K. 4000K would be a bit too blue to be the same color as the "old bulbs". The hard thing with instrument bulbs as others have found is to find a LED that is bright enough but yet small enough to fit in the mounting hole. One day.... 

[Yem]

Hi Hans,

Below is a link I posted some time back in regards to my successful attempt in brighten the dash.  I have had no issues at all since I installed them.

I will post steps for the benefit of everyone.  I have to go through my PC for pics.

http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=17492.msg121716#msg121716

Regards,

Yem

[mmizesko]

Hans,

Here is the definitive thread on the replacement including which bulbs to replace on the instrument cluster, and which to leave.

http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=19084.0

You may have to shave the sides of a few to fit.  Especially the 1-LED bulb for the clock, which I had to grind down past the metal post.

I couldn't be happier with the result.  It is a cooler white than the incadescents, but lots brighter without the heat.  You will notice an anomaly from time to time, as when my rpms are low, or when just starting up, my alternator LED flickers, or my turn signals flicker.

The LED's I used were from Superbright. And I think the bulbs are specified in the aforementioned thread.  If not, let me know and I can dig out the information. I need to find them for a friend as well.

Mike Mizesko

[royroberson]

Can anyone with experience replacing bulbs please help me specify the correct replacement LED bulbs for ordering from "superbrightleds.com"?

The options available are confusing me (wide angle, 4-led, bulb color to match lens color, frosted, etc...). It seems I need more than "BA 9s". Perhaps "BA9S-WHP" (for white high power?)

I think we need these:

Tach (white High Power)
Spedo (White High Power)
Clock (?)
Turn Signals (2) Green High Power
Instrument Panel (bottom of instrument cluster HP)
Generator (keep 2W regular bulb for proper resistance)
Brake Fluid (red - may not be needed on the 230SL)
High Beam (blue)
Telethermometer (red)
Fuel Gauge Reserve (small hole may not fit an LED?)
Water Temp (is there a light?)
Oil temp (is there a light?)
Heater Control (2 - white high power)
Radio Becker Mexico TR (green)
Glove Box (white HP)
Courtesy Light (white)

Did I miss any?

Thank You

Roy Roberson

If you prefer, you can respond directly to roy@land-strategies.us

[66andBlue]

Some of your questions are answered in the photo of reply #22 here: http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=19084.0

[Eminent]

I should read this forum better before do some work at the car.
The instrument cluster of a W108 is a very hard part to work on.
So i decide to change all the bulbs for LED's so that it could stay in place for long time.
After that i noticed that the alternator warning light doesn't go out quick as earlier. It needed more throttle to go out.
The car drove horrible and i smell more exhaust gasses than first.
At home, when disconnecting the - lead from the battery, the engine died immediately.
Changing the alternator LED to a "normal" bulb solved this problem.
Now have to see if the smell of gasses  will be back to normal also.