Author Topic: Drive Shaft Question  (Read 3808 times)

vande17941

  • Full Member
  • Senior
  • ***
  • USA, CA, Irvine
  • Posts: 198
Drive Shaft Question
« on: October 08, 2015, 03:32:44 »
Had a "knowledgeable" W113 mechanic change the driveshaft middle support rubber bushing. Now it seems the shifter (manual) vibrates (and the car) like crazy at high speed. Is there anything that was needed to be removed or did the two halves of the drivesshaft have to be "matched up" in the same orientation? I'm looking for someone who has done this job and can tell me what it entails so I can either have him fix it right or do it myself. Thanks
'66 USA (1967 model Year) 230sl, 4-speed Manual, Driven Like a Real Car! Set up with KYB Stiffer Shocks, and Motor Mounts w Urethane Inserts Underneath, 3-point Belts, Headrests Installed 🚗

1986 560sl Cabernet & Palomino (not recommended)

2001 SLK320 Sport AMG Silver & Black

ja17

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, Blacklick
  • Posts: 7414
Re: Drive Shaft Question
« Reply #1 on: October 08, 2015, 07:15:09 »
The drive shaft halves should always be marked before dis-assembly. Make sure that the drive shaft flex disc and centering is assembled correctly.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

vande17941

  • Full Member
  • Senior
  • ***
  • USA, CA, Irvine
  • Posts: 198
Re: Drive Shaft Question
« Reply #2 on: October 08, 2015, 07:17:38 »
Thanks...that was my thought too...that he put the halves back together  differently and the driveshaft is now out of balance.

What would the other things do that would be of concern...flex disc, centering etc?
'66 USA (1967 model Year) 230sl, 4-speed Manual, Driven Like a Real Car! Set up with KYB Stiffer Shocks, and Motor Mounts w Urethane Inserts Underneath, 3-point Belts, Headrests Installed 🚗

1986 560sl Cabernet & Palomino (not recommended)

2001 SLK320 Sport AMG Silver & Black

Benz Dr.

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Canada, ON, Port Lambton
  • Posts: 7220
  • Benz Dr.
Re: Drive Shaft Question
« Reply #3 on: October 08, 2015, 14:51:20 »
Check that the holes in the flange aren't worn. If the bolts came loose it can really wear the drive shaft and the flange on the trans out put shaft. If your guy didn't install a new hanger bearing I would do that. Any good bearing place will have that - maybe 15 bucks.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

mBdrvr

  • Full Member
  • Senior
  • ***
  • USA, PA, Bethlehem
  • Posts: 169
Re: Drive Shaft Question
« Reply #4 on: October 08, 2015, 18:09:50 »
Another question regarding drive shafts:

Any suggestions on getting the two rusted halves apart?

Thanks,

Paul
Paul Greenblatt
'70 280 SL
'66 250 SE Cabrio
'60 190 SL

Benz Dr.

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Canada, ON, Port Lambton
  • Posts: 7220
  • Benz Dr.
Re: Drive Shaft Question
« Reply #5 on: October 09, 2015, 01:20:32 »
oooooooohh......... that could be fun. I guess you could try a bit of heat on it. Make sure you keep the U joints cool if you do. Heat and then spary something like liquid wrench or similar on it while it's still warm. Tap it back and forth until it starts to move. Make sure you mark the halves so they go back together properly. I use anti seize so things like this won't happen.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC