Constant Speed Solenoid

[MikeL43]

Does anyone out there have a constant speed solenoid for sale or know where I can find one??  My 67 250 SL has a dealer installed Kuhnmeister AC unit that was dealer installed but they did not add a solenoid to increase the idle speed when the AC compressor engaged.  My old 66 250 SE coupe with an automatic transmission had this item installed, probably for the auto trans, but it also increased toe idle when the AC was on.  Any offers can send me an e-mail at mblunsfordsr@yahoo.com  TIA. 
Mike

[MikeL43]

One of our members was kind enough to offer to sell me a Constant speed solenoid (CSS) which I will buy if I can resolve a couple of issues.  One is how to mount the CSS.  The seller has provided photos of the one on his car but the linkage and mounting setup on his 1971, is different than the one on my 67.  My car has  a manual transmission with AC and as previously stated had no CSS mounted when the dealer installed the Kuhlmeister AC unit.  My car does have a hydraulic idle speed solenoid which I understand was to increase the idle speed when the Power Steering bogged down the motor at idle.  I may have to remove this solenoid in order to mount the CSS but that would involve removing the solenoid and blocking off the hydraulic line which comes from the power steering.  My car also had the "buffer" mounted below the PS solenoid, supposedly to reduce the rapidity of the change from acceleration to idle.  The second issue is the power supply for the CSS.  Normally I would pick up power from the hot wire that goes to the AC clutch and use that source to activate the CSS however the CSS has two wires, not one so I'm not sure how it should be wired or for that matter if I need to find a relay to handle the extra power required by the CSS.  Any photos or ideas will be most welcome or you can send a photo to my e-mail at mblunsfordsr@yahoo.com.  TIA.   

[Tyler S]

Mike, I thought we already had a thread going about this.
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=24475.msg174976#msg174976
You would need the different crossover rod bracket pictured if you want to retain the hydraulic setup as well. Ignore the red hilight in the photo-was taken from another post. The Css has 2 terminals. One goes to The ac clutch feed wire and the other possibly to ground or not used.
I don't have a part # but maybe someone with a 280 parts book can step in here.
If you do decide to remove the hydraulic setup and put the CSS in its place you could possibly put a pressure switch on the steering box in place of the line. Then wire it into the CSS along with your AC clutch feed wire. You would possibly need a diode in circuit.
Just updated with a second pic below that shows the bracket at a better angle. The css plate bolts to the side with 2 bolts

[Tyler S]

Here is another good pic. Looks as if a post is screwed into the other end of the ball for the throttle plate.
http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/ramcdonald/200782173524_CSSsolenoidsmall.jpg

[MikeL43]

Tyler S. was right, I already had a thread going regarding this issue, my apologies for the duplication.  I also like Tyler's suggestion for a pressure switch from an automatic transmission to replace the hydraulic solenoid.  It shouldn't be too difficult to fabricate a mount for the CSS if it is necessary.  Where is the best place to find a pressure switch?  Thanks for the input from everybody, I have found the forum to be a wealth of information. 
Mike L

[Tyler S]

You would want a pressure switch designed for power steering systems. Not one for a transmission. They are readily available on line or at a Parts store. Google "power steering pressure switch".  Find one with the same thread size as the existing pipe coupling you will be removing so you shouldnt need to modify anything. You may want to take the pipe off and with you down to a napa or other store.
You may also find you dont even need it. My 250 does not have the hydraulic setup. It does drop rpm slightly at idle when turning the wheel fast and hard but it has never stalled.
You might want to temporarily "misadjust" the the hydraulic setup so the cylinder doesn't make contact with the throttle linkage and then drive it around for a bit to see what happens to your idle when turning.