Shift ROD Q

[Kazoo]

While I've got everything out, figured I might as well do the shift linkage bushings....I have read a bunch of posts and looked at diagrams like the one on SLS, but I'm stumped on the main shifter rod - to clarify - the larger center rod that goes from the gear shift rod to the transmission.  The bushings on the smaller side rods seem pretty straight forward.

On my version on the main rod, there is a fork on the transmission end and this fork is attached to the rod with a rubber bushing and then there is something like a pin running right through it - SEE PHOTO ATTACHED-

As you can see in the photo, the pin hole is elongated and so there is play in the fork, I can twist the fork back and forth in the elongated hole...and that seems like it is going to make for sloppy shifting...  There is a rubber bushing between the adjustable fork and the main rod but still the fork twists inside.

Can anyone recommend a solution?  The shifter bushing kits do not look like they include parts that would address this.

THANKS from snowy Boston - More that 6' and counting....might have to put a plow blade on the 113!

Wayne

[ctaylor738]

I looked at the EPC, there aren't any parts available for the rod.  You can get a new one for a mere $1120 list.

I admit to never having looked closely at the rod, so i fished out an old one from the garage.  It has a fossilized rubber bushing, and like yours, the pin is not tight in the hole. It has maybe a millimeter of play in each direction when I twist it.  Obviously any play would be magnified by the length of the shifter handle.  I have no idea why the hole would be bigger than the pin.  Maybe to reduce vibration and provide a little cushioning when shifting?

Cheers,

CT

[Kazoo]

Thanks so much for looking into this...UGH on the $1+k

Wondering if I might weld the pin to the rod to eliminate any play??

Best,

Wayne

[Dave H]

Parts from SLS don't show this set up , mine is the same as yours and is also kinda wobbly !
SLS set up has a splined shaft ? No sloppy rubber and pin ?

[ctaylor738]

You could do that.  But on the other hand, someone went to a lot of trouble to design and manufacture it with the rubber bushing, and the oversized holes, obviously to provide a little bit of play or cushioning.  I've fixed a couple of cars with really sloppy shifting, and once the large plastic bushings secure the rod to the transmission were renewed, the shifting was fine.

[Dave H]

There's one on e bay at the moment .
Item number
350749445863
Make him an offer ? .

[enochbell]

I like doing things "right", but this is not something I would correct unless I was certain that it was a source of unacceptable play.  If you replace the bushings, all of them, and you experience excessive play then you may want to replace.  But not with the outrageous ebay item (there is no way the list price of this item was > $1,000), you can look here:

http://www.sls-hh-shop.de/en/230-280SL-W113/25-26-Clutch-4-Speed-Box/26-b-Gearlever-Linkage/?force_sid=58tjjtfoevhl6e5iglhiq5i020?_artperpage=10&listorderby=oxstock&listorder=desc

Best,
g

[ctaylor738]

The SLS part is a repro.  Here is the real deal from Merecedes.  I was incorrect earlier - the list is $1,390.

[Kazoo]

Thats crazy money for a ... ROD...!!

too rich for me....

But, I have another cheesy idea, the holes do not look elongated on the new version, and so I am thinking that my holes are elongated from years of wear.  All of my other bushings were in pretty good condition so I think this is the source of a lot of side to side play....

So Im thinking to fill the elongated holes with a very durable calking, if you are familiar with a 3m product we use a lot in the boating world, 3M 5200. its extremely tough but will also give a little.  Its an adhesive so it will stick, and it hardens up like stiff rubber....  A tube is about $8 bucks and that is more in my price range!

I did look at the SLS part and that is a re-pro, so I would rather stick with my original part.

I guess the other idea would be to see if I could get the pin out and then re-drill the hole to fit a slightly larger pin that would fit snug - this might be a less cheesy solution!

Signing off after another fun, but too short of a day in the garage restoring little bits and pieces of the old girl!

[Dave H]

Hi Wayne

The oversized hole to pin size allows some flexing of the bush. Its made that way from new.
My bushing is also shot, its deteriorated and broken away from inside the tube end . (see photo )
Somebodys tried to hammer it up in the past but its not right.
I know its original but its only fit for the bin.
This old bush is causing the oversized hole to get even bigger like yours , i will never acheive a tight gearshift by fitting the normal bushing kit everybody uses .
We could weld it all up but then it would be a solid linkage, like the part from SLS.
I have a Getrag 5 speed going in next year, i think i have to alter my tube anyway, i will adress it at that time and probably fit the SLS part .

[ejboyd5]

Put in a new bushing, reassemble the unit and give it a test.  If you believe it is still too loose it is a simple task to weld over the elongated opening and drill a new hole slightly larger than the diameter of the pin to allow for the original compliance factor that was designed by DBAG.  By the way, what's the condition of the pin itself, has it become worn or bent beyond specifications?

[Dave H]

It appears the bushing is chemically bonded to the metal during a moulding & vulcanisation process.
It is this bond that has broken.
I don't think it can be re bushed .

[Kazoo]

Wondering about that pin, would it even be possible to get it out if it was vulcanized in with the rubber??  My internal rubber is ok, but actually you can hold each end and rotate the full width of the elongated hole, and that makes for a lot of side to side play.

[Dave H]

Mine is the same ..
Bit of a poor design but then I'm sure they weren't meant to last 50 years.
I'm thinking ...
Buy new ... $1300 ouch !!!!
Offer the e bay guy $400 ! Getting better
Couple of weld tacks ,pin to tube ( keep the heat down ) cheap and easy !
Buy the trouble free SLS version ( bet all the German pagodas are using this version !
I will give it a bit more thought over this next bottle of wine .... It is Saturday night after all .

[Kazoo]

Well I couldn't ask for more than that on a saturday night!  Well maybe a glass of that vino!  But being on the other side of the pond that might be more complicated than the shift rod!

Thanks for all of your thoughtful ideas...

[Kazoo]

After some thinking about it.....I have figured out the design anyways.  The reason for the rubber bushing - and - the reason that the pin is not a tight metal to metal fit, is that this design will isolate engine vibration from the shifter....so good on them, for not wanting us to have to feel the vibration of the engine in our cute little shift knobs!  The pin is actually just a safety in the case that the runner bond fails - as they have done - so that you could still shift gears.

Still doesn't solve the problem, but for sure the re-pro SLS part forgoes this subtle feature, and I imagine that a few tack welds to the pin will do the same.  It may be relatively minor vibration since there are other bushings in the linkage.

So what to do....still thinking that the tack welds might be best, but filling the pin voids with a stiff curing rubber like 3m's 5200 boat caulk would preserve the original design feature...but how long will it last is my concern.

This one may take another bottle of wine or maybe a few pints of bitter!

Cheers

[Dave H]

I never even thought about vibration....
Now you mention it though it does sound right.

[Shvegel]

I think you are on the right track with adding 5200 to the cavity.  You might want to consider using winshield urethane which sets up much faster and is a harder compound.  If it were mine I would remove all plastic bits, burn out the old rubber, sandblast or beadblast the cavity and fill it back in with the urethane.

[ja17]

This is a vibration isolation joint. Most manufacturers of the time just mounted the shifter on the tunnel with no isolating bushings. Mercedes has gone to great complexity and expense to minimize engine vibration to the shifter. Just look at all the bits and pieces involved here to operate the single shift rod going into the transmission. Actually the earlier SLs (190SL and 300SL) used only one solid shift rod, with no pin an bushing arrangement. There was only the plastic bushings under the shift rod. The shift assembly bolted directly to the chassis (no floating shifter supported by plastic diaphragm). There were also no secondary pair of support rods and bushings. Worked just fine, a little more direct. However as the cars became more refined, things became more complex and the later 300SLs and 190SLs also used the single shift rod with the pin and bushing isolation joint. The rest of the complexity did not happen until the W113 cars.

It looks like your choices are; a complicated rebuild of the rod, an expensive new replacement part, elimination of the vibration isolation joint (live with a bit of vibration), or living with a somewhat sloppy shifter (probably the least desirable option).

[x4158]

has anyone found a shifter bushing KIT anywhere?  all I can find is individual pieces

[MikeL43]

Buds Benz has a "shift, bushing kit" minor for $49, which I believe is all you need.  They also offer a "Major" kit for $149.  See https://www.budsbenz.com/catalog/230-250-280-sl/h-transmission-clutch