Hello Tom,
In the post to Scott, below, you gave details of the adjustment of the main linkages.
There were some linkages/rods you did not mention, in particular the vertical link rod that is between the pivot point on the engine block on the RHS and the pivot point on the inlet manifold that connects to the small link rod that connects to the main control rod across the engine.
When I checked my basic top linkages they all seemed to be correct as you stated, but the VERTICAL rod between the pivot points was touching the exhaust manifold and effectively forming a STOP.
I figured the vertical rod should NOT be touching the exhaust manifold so I disconnected the short middle link rod and watched the main linkages.
Nothing moved.
The vertical rod actually PUSHES the pivot that pushes the short middle rod.
The butterfly valve and the inj pump both looked to be resting on their stops.
I then adjusted the short middle rod to allow the vertical rod to be off the exhaust manifold by about 0.5 mm.
After tightening the lock nuts on the middle rod, I had to adjust the constant speed solenoid.
When I took the car for a test drive the motor seemed to be the same BUT the auto transmission is now shifting a lot more smoothly.
It still CLUNKS but it is less violent.
I am going to adjust the vertical rod to be away even more, say 1.5 mm, to see if there is even more improvement in the transmission shifting.
My Questions.....
What have I done that has made the change to the transmission?
As my car was adjusted to have the exhaust CO level at 4.4% with the vertical rod touching the exhaust manifold, should I have my exhaust CO level checked to see if I did actually make a change to the system?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Toms original post
Scott,
Many are tempted to start adjusting the idle air screw and idle fuel screw (on the back of the FI pump) to fix this problem. It would be a mistake to try to fix your low idle by adjusting the fuel and air mixture screws without first going through the steps outlined in order listed below.
First place to start is to ensure all of your linkages are correct, which is critical to a correctly running engine. Disconnect and lubricate each of the ball joint ends.
Starting on the passenger side of the engine, check that the throttle plate (venturi butterfly valve at the air intake manifold) closes tight without binding. Adjust the length of the throttle rod to the main regulating rod (big rod that goes across the valve cover) so that the ball connection on the main regulating rod is centered with the hole in the support bracket.
Now move to the driver's side of the engine. Adjust the linkage from the main regulating rod to the injection pump so that the injector is against its stop when the linkage is tight. From center of the ball end to the center of the ball end on this linkage should measure 233 MM. The idle stop on the other side of the engine should also be tight against the idle stop screw.
Next step is to check the timing to ensure that it is set properly, gaps in points are correct and points are not pitted. Check spark plugs for signs of too rich or too lean running.
Once you get the linkages and basic tuning down, only then start adjusting the idle air screw and the FI pump idle fuel mixture. You can loosen the linkage at the FI pump and press it down while the car is running but since it is disconnected from the rest of the linkage, pressing the linkage down will tell you if the car is running lean (as you are adding fuel without any air). If the car runs better with the linkage pressed *slightly* down, the car is running lean (you gave it more gas and it performed better.) If the car stumbles with this procedure, the car is not getting too much air.
Now hook this linkage back up and go to the other side (passenger side) of the engine and disconnect the linkage from the venturi air intake to the main regulating rod. Do the same trick on this. If the engine accelerates by more than 300 RPM before it stumbles, then there is too much fuel. Less than 200 rpm acceleration before it stumbles could indicate lean condition.
Once you determine if the fuel/air settings are lean or rich, you can adjust the idle air screw or the idle fuel screw (on the FI pump) to get the mix right. This is done with a vacuum gauge. The ideal vacuum at idle is 16-18 at 800 rpm. Turn air screw clockwise until the vacuum reaches it's max before it falls and then turn it back a notch. You would then adjust the FI pump idle fuel screw (with engine off) to until you get the vacuum to a max of 16-18 on the vacuum gauge. Check the Big Blue Book but I think clockwise adds fuel to mix-turn it 4 indents at a time and then recheck. Let me repeat-only adjust the FI idle screw with the engine off.
It would be a mistake to try to fix your low idle by adjusting the fuel and air mixture screws without first going through the steps outlined in order listed above.
Hope this helps,
Tom
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Edited by - Tom on 24 Mar 2003 21:57:23
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob(Brisbane,Australia)
