'68 280 Pagoda on the the hook. Catch or Release? Would love member input

[singalredbenz]

Hi all,

My father-in-law's original 1968 SL 280 is for sale via his nephew.  Our family has first right-of-refusal.  I've been wanting a project car for our garage for some time.  Just want some input from you novices and experts about what I might be getting into.   It looks to have some really good bones, with minor, minor, rust (as far as I can see - I know rust hides well) and some unfortunate water damage/rust in the typical spots on the hard top.  It doesn't turn over, but that doesn't really concern me.  Starter cranks fine and it sounds as if it's right there and I'll be trailing it home regardless. 

Here are some bullets about what I've found

original tool kit
manual / service records
matching numbers
original Becker stereo
original dealer installed jump seat, with original panel
original signal red (will need paint)
immaculate leather seats and panels
heater control broke when i touched it 
excessive water damage and likely rust on hard top headliner
minor rust on surface of left rear trunk pan
gas filler neck has rust inside, exterior of tank looks good
nice condition otherwise on all body panels, minor ping in hood
headlight creases and fender creases look perfect.
never had body work.
all original parts (as far as I can tell).
a lot of chrome has that worn look (minor bubbling and dullness) don't know much about how to go about fixing this.  (is it even possible?)

Anyone willing to help me jump off this cliff, I'd really appreciate it.  Looking forward to driving this thing one day soon hopefully.

Kevin

[StevenF]

Kevin,
I would take the car to a mechanic that is VERY experienced with Pagodas for a thorough inspection.  Rust is huge problem and can "eat" your wallet as fast as it "eats" through a 280sl.  If you want to speak, let me know as I have gone through a restoration myself.
I live in NY if you want to discuss...
Regards
Steven

[Rolf-Dieter ✝︎]

Hi Kevin,

I see you started a thread, some more close up photos would help members to provide input.

If I was in your shoes I would do the following;-

1) Read thru the "pre-Purchase" write up in our Tech Manual and compare the condition of the car.

2) Find someone knowledgable in the NY area to put approx. $ numbers to items that need to be addressed.

3) Based on the price you have to pay for the "now" condition and the additional $$ you need to spend your disission should be easy.

Check here ----> http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Buying/PrepurchaseEvaluation

Keep this in mind "Purchase the best you can afford" minor items can be fixed over time.

Good Luck,

Dieter

Edit, added link.

[hauser]

Go for it!  Get it running and enjoy it!  In ten years you'll most likely make money on it.

[rjmarco]

Hi, Kevin.  Good luck with your project.  I completed something similar starting with a 1965 230 SL that I bought from a dealer.  It was in decent running condition but nonetheless needed about two years of effort to get it to the state I wanted.  I now look back on the effort with a lot of satisfaction.  I had to spend more than the original purchase prices on general restoration work including metal work to replace rust in all four wheel wells and the front floor pans.  I'd surely advise patience and spending what you can afford but I predict that you'll like the end product. 

Regards,

Rich

[singalredbenz]

Hi Steven,

Thanks, I'd love to get in touch with you to hear more about your thoughts and experience.  My email address is warnermkevin@gmail.com, you can write with your contact info.  Really appreciate the offer.

Thanks so much,
Kevin 

[Pinder]

Buy it. You wont regret it. if then engine is turning over its a good sign. You will be kicking yourself if you dont go for it. During the last year and a half Ive brought back to life two that had sat for 20+ years. One turned over and my brother and I had it starting in about two days.  the other one I have had a locked up engine. It had one piston ring broken that jamed the engine and no turnig was going to free it. I ended up doing a rebuild with new pistons etc. Had to pull the engine etc. I took it down to ever last nut and bolt and actually its not that hard to do. just take lots of pics so you know how to put it all back.

[Bonnyboy]

As previously noted - it all comes down to price and what you are willing to put into it.   I suggest that you find a knowledgeable mechanic / mercedes guy to inspect and then figure out what it will cost  ($$)  to get it in to the shape where you can take it so you can drive 600 miles to attend a car show in the show and shine section - that that number and double it and you will probably be close to actual cost.  (this means in addition to rust repair - headliner repair the bigger things are safe,  tires in good shape, all hoses, motor and subframe mounts, suspension, brakes, engine components, heater, radio in good and reliable shape)

Subtract that from what a comparable (show and shine) vehicle sells for and you have a starting point to talk to the family.  I|t may be helpful to have the mechanic talk to the family as well.

I helped a friend come up with a value for a 65 mustang not that long ago - family thought it was worth $30,000 cause grandma saw one the same colour sell on Barret Jackson on the TV.  After a methodology as I noted above and some good sleuthing at local car shows he ended up getting the car for $5,000 - everyone was happy because he was forthcoming in his value estimation.  Its a restoration project.  He didn't get a screaming deal but he didn't pay too much either.

Good luck.

[Pinder]

you can get pretty good shine on the chrome with 0000 steel wool. You can get it from Home Depot or lowes. you may be surprized how good it looks. If that does not get them looking nice enough you ill have to chrome them.

[Benz Dr.]

I always tell everyone the same thing.............

 It will take longer than you think and it will cost more than you expect.

 If you have a running driving car, DON"T take it apart unless you have the resources to see it all the way to the end.

[Shvegel]

You have shown us the shiny part. The expensive parts are the not shiny parts.  Rust can be covered up and we are pretty good at spotting it when it does. If you can't get good pictures of the underside of the car try turning the steering wheel all the way to one side and reaching up inside the front wheelwell. Up near the top on the inboard side(toward the engine) you will find a rectangular feeling bump that runs front to back on the car.  Now reach up and feel the top of that for rust holes.  When someone covers over rust they usually miss that area and if they don't they usually just screw or pop rivit a patch over it which you should feel.  Any holes there usually means rust somwhere that has either been patched(precious few shops do it right and most are butchers) or is waiting to burst forth like the extra terrestrial in the movie alien.

As for getting it running it is possible to do it yourself if you are mechanically inclined or you can take it to a shop that has a lot of experience working with old Mercedes fuel injection. Taking it to the dealer or just anyone who works on old cars can cost you thousands of dollars sending them to fuel injection school.  There are just now new gas tanks available from a company called Dansk that makes replica parts for Porsche. $400 for a replica and $1600 from Mercedes factory.  Buy one and don't look back. Micro rust that gets through the fuel filter can over time cost you 10 times what a new reproduction tank will.  Also you might want to stop trying to start the car until verifying the electric pump under the car just ahead of the rear axle is turning( humming) if it is stuck you will burn it up and it is a $1600 pump.

[Shvegel]

Here is the spot to check for rust. Above the reinforcement on the inner side.

[stickandrudderman]

Good advise above. Ignore it at your peril!