Author Topic: Parking Lights On (Read 7894 times)

jszeman1 · « **on:** October 12, 2016, 12:54:33 »

My 230sl was sitting in the garage after a few hour drive a few days ago. Two days later I opened the door and my parking (bottom of headlight both sides) and tail lights were on. I could not shut them off and had to disconnect the battery. The switch works turning on the headlights and then the parking lights go off when the head lights are on. Recently a few months ago both headlights were removed and reinstalled when we repainted the front end of the car but no issues for those months. Any ideas? Grounding issue? Switch?

badali · « **Reply #1 on:** October 12, 2016, 14:49:27 »

Were all the corners on? If only the left or right side were on the lane parking lights are what was on. Put the switch in the 12 o'clock position and all should be off.

jszeman1 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 12, 2016, 14:57:57 »

I don't have side marker lights. It is the bottom of the headlight that stays on in the 12 o'clock position.

waltklatt · « **Reply #3 on:** October 12, 2016, 16:17:35 »

John,
Check your bulbs. Sometimes the filament contacts jump and complete the bridge to the ground to the lights.
You said, you worked on your front lights.
Go back and recheck the wiring there.
Fall is coming and colder temps, metal shrinks and metal contacts could be bridged/closed.
Walter

jszeman1 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 15, 2016, 20:25:57 »

I unplugged the parking lights on both sides and the dash and tail lights still remained on. I checked the ground wire in the headlight bucket and it was ok. Do you think it is the switch? I hate to get into the dash if I don' have to.

Tyler S · « **Reply #5 on:** October 16, 2016, 15:12:58 »

Turn the headllight switch left of 12:00 one and 2 clicks (clearance lts left and right) and report back.
Most likely the contact inside the switch has come loose and rolled over in its little nesting place and is now making contact with a neighboring terminal.

jszeman1 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 17, 2016, 14:19:54 »

Thanks for your reply. In the off position the parking lights and tail lights are on. The first position dim running lights , the second brighter running lights. To the right headlights. Tail lights are also on in the off position.

waltklatt · « **Reply #7 on:** October 17, 2016, 15:44:33 »

John,
Which lights are on the taillights?
Could be the emergency flasher wiring got crossed?
You will need to take the light switch set out to see the cause.
Also move the turn signal up and down to see if that changes anything.
Walter
I have another light switch knob switch set, if you need it.

Tyler S · « **Reply #8 on:** October 19, 2016, 13:48:27 »

Ok, that tells me the switch is bad. Left one click should be rt parking lamps only. Left 2 clicks should be left parking lamps only. Because the switch is the only point of "control" in the circuit, It must be the switch because you are able to change the fault by moving it. A spring and contact wiper inside the switch most likely has moved around. The bakelite housing that keeps everything in its home can crack internally and let things move around
The only other explanation would be the switch is wired incorrectly but that wouldn't explain how it just appeared out of nowhere.

jszeman1 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 04, 2016, 19:29:12 »

I seem to making progress with my wiring mess. The switch is working properly except in the off position where the dash lights will not go off and the left backup light is not working (bulb good). The Rheostat also is not dimming. I cleaned the rheostat with no change. I have a brown wire that goes under the knurled nut for both the tac and speedometer but am not finding one for the center cluster. Is there one? I have changed most of the bulbs. Is there a connection with the dash lights not going off and the rheostat not dimming?

66andBlue · « **Reply #10 on:** November 05, 2016, 00:46:16 »

John,
there is no outside brown wire for the center cluster, the ground wire is in the harness.
Did you check whether the rheostat has been shortened, either at the rheostat wire itself or in the connector as described here?
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/Rheostat
With the light switch in the off position remove one fuse after the other to find out which circuit is feeding the dash lights. You could do further testing at the handshake connector for the center cluster if that is easier.

jszeman1 · « **Reply #11 on:** November 06, 2016, 14:26:16 »

Thank you for your replys.

The dash lights are on the number 1 fuse as are the left and right clearance lights. I had thought that the dash lights were fuse 7. When I removed fuse 7 the dash lights did not go out. When I unplug the clock the dash lights go off.

So now I find:

1. The right tail is on and burns dim when the left clearance lights only are on.
2 When the right clearance light is switched on, the clearance light lights and the tail light on the right burns dim.
3. In the off position the right tail light burns dim.
4. The Rheostat does not dim the lights
5. In the off position the dash lights do to go out
6. Disconnect the clock and the dash lights go out.

I disconnected the handshake connector to the central instrument cluster and tested the resistance between the two pins furthest from the cable as shown on the rheostat thread. I was able to confirm the 18 Ohm and O Ohm when turning the rheostat knob. Also when I unplug the center cluster the other dash lights remain on.

Jordan · « **Reply #12 on:** November 06, 2016, 21:31:12 »

Definitely looks like some of your wiring has been crossed. The dash lights are on fuse 7, not 1. The right tail light is also on fuse 7. You'll need to look at which wires you have coming into fuse 1 and fuse 7 and compare it with the wiring diagram. While fuse 1 always has power, fuse 7 only works when the headlight switch is turned on. What about your license plate light and parking lights. Not sure what you mean by clearance lights (parking lights?).

jszeman1 · « **Reply #13 on:** November 07, 2016, 03:28:20 »

I think the terminology for the clearance lights is either the right side or the left side for parking.

jszeman1 · « **Reply #14 on:** November 07, 2016, 17:57:44 »

Is it possible to remove the two screws in the fuse block and pull it inside the car to check and repair wires easily?

66andBlue · « **Reply #15 on:** November 07, 2016, 18:30:10 »

Yes it is possible .. but nothing is easy under the dash. You need to remove a few items to make room. The photo shows what to expect - this one also shows the taped back wire to prevent the flash-to-pass high beam.
Before pulling the fuse box down I would first check all the handshake connectors to make sure the individual wires are lined up correctly on each side.

jszeman1 · « **Reply #16 on:** November 07, 2016, 19:54:49 »

Should I attach the flash to pass wire if mine is not attached. I believe it goes to fuse number 1.

fosdicke · « **Reply #17 on:** November 08, 2016, 16:27:55 »

Disconnect the Battery before you go digging in the Entrails and I would disconnect the tail lights before going on much more to see if there is shorting in there as well .

jszeman1 · « **Reply #18 on:** November 08, 2016, 17:49:44 »

Thanks for the advise. I have a new headlight assembly coming which is correct for my car and when I change that and the connector I will move to the tailights again before I get into the fuse box. I do think that someone reversed the # 1 and #7 wires but still checking.

On another note does anyone know what is on terminal 3 of the fuse box if you have a standard transmission?

jszeman1 · « **Reply #19 on:** November 14, 2016, 22:28:20 »

This junction box pictured is used for the glove box. Should the brown ground wire be on the right top and bottom and red on the left. Right now they are crossed. Too many hands in the dash over the years.

Also with a standard transmission is terminal 3 on the fuse box left empty?

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Author Topic: Parking Lights On (Read 7894 times)

fosdicke