Rotisserie selections and set up recommendation

[johnk]

Well after three years of getting all om my honey-doo's done first I am finally starting the tear down of my 280sl for a rotisserie restoration. Yeah!

The car is virtually rust free and it looks like I will even be keeping most if not all of the original undercoating. My primary use for the rotisserie is ease of access to all surfaces. 

First Question
I am pulling out the entire drive train and interior. Do I need to install door-frame braces given that I am not replacing any structural body or chassis components?

Second Question
Any recommendations on rotisserie selection? At this point I am leaning toward the unpainted Auto-twirler Elite for about $1,400. I will also have to buy the larger wheels so I can take it outside for media blasting.

Thanks for the help!

[Tyler S]

If you wont be doing much to the underneath of the car, then find a setup that uses the factory weigh points (front subframe anchor and rear axle points). This way you will be unobstructed to do body work and paint on the front and rear of the car. You shouldnt need door jamb stiffeners if the chassis, floors and rockers are sound. 

[Shvegel]

I built a trailer that used the jack points as support. I thought it worked pretty well for the entire project from post welding(welding was done on a frame bench) and it has worked really well.  My bodyman insisted on door bars but honestly the chassis is so light I can't imagine needing them.

[stickandrudderman]

the chassis is so light I can't imagine needing them.

 

[johnk]

nice!

[Shvegel]

Stick,
Can't be more than 400 Kg.  Sitting on a trailer with a lightly sprung suspension I can't imagine it would bend even with the attachment points being more centered than the suspension points.  I keep thinking about the factory video where they open and close the door with one wheel off the ground.