Hardtop Removal / Install Help needed

[StevenF]

Most of you know that I am nearing the end of my restoration  (http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=23699.0)

 I recently learned from my mechanic that when the staff at the body shop put the hardtop back on, they scratched the new paint.I can't say I am happy....

I have a hoist in my garage and wanted some advice---is there a "trick" or method to easily put the hard top back on so as to avoid scratching the car?  Please let me know any tricks you may have because I love the look with the top on but don"t want to run the risk of scratching the car after it gets repainted.

Thanks
Steven

[49er]

 I have a home made block and tackle system for my top that has served me well. It lifts the rear of the HT first so the when the HT is suspended above the car, there is a slight downward angle to the front. When lowering, the windshield attach points make contact first then the rear. I also made two "shields" out of heavy cardboard that fit around the rear attach points and are removed after the top has settled into the front attach points.

John

[StevenF]

can you email me a few pics?
Please send them to sjfreifeld@gmail.com

[JonathanB]

Or better yet, post them so that we can all see!

[49er]

I have used this rig for nearly 50 years (in three different homes on two different W113s ). I made the wood "cleats" to prevent the rope from cutting into the rubber window seals.

John

[StevenF]

John,
I don't see wood cleats...
And you mention the rope...please clarify
Regards
Steven

[49er]

I enlarged the photo so maybe it might be a bit more clear. The wooden cleats are visible in the upper corner of the window frame (brown in color). The sling is made from .25 nylon rope. I don't plan on putting the top back on until next year and this is the only photo available.

John

[StevenF]

John,
Thank you for the pics but my issue is not removal as I have a hoist set up in my garage as well----it is putting it back on that is the issue.  I want to see if anyone has a solution/trick to avoid scratching the paint when returning the hard top to the car....
Regards
Steven

[badali]

I use two people.  Place the front as first contact with the car and it is easier to line up.  If you use a hoist there is a chance of not being lined up properly or dropping too fast.  Since most of us rarely add or remove the hardtop I thing two people is the best way.  Ask Garry...

[Jordan]

Steven, I too have a hardtop lift and it is set up so the crank is close enough to the car such that I can lower the hard top and hold onto it at the same time to keep it lined up.  It is angled like you see in John's picture so I raise the hard top, drive directly underneath it and then lower the top so that the front two windshield attachment points touch first (same as John), I then slowly lower it, while holding it so the back sits in the correct position.  Sometimes the car is positioned too far forward or back which I can adjust before the the top is lowered all the way.  I can lock the crank so it holds the top at whatever height I want so I can adjust the car accordingly.  I can do this all myself.

BTW, I never keep the top on the lift.  Once removed I move the car out of the way and then lower it directly onto the hardtop cradle.  I use one foot on the back end of the cradle to keep it from tipping as the top is lowered onto it.  I have my hand on the hard top the entire time so I can control any turning or swinging.

[su8pack1]

Mine has been hanging from the ceiling for over 30 years and has only been on 5 or 6 times. As others have said I keep it tilted slightly forward and place several towels on the car at the back with some help holding it steady. When about an inch away from the back with the front in the latches I remove the towels and lower it into place. No scratches yet.

[StevenF]

Great Advice--and I love your car!

[Paul & Dolly]

Hi Steven,,
1. like others I use aß hoist and angle the front down slightly and locate the front pins first.
2. I put reference marks on the garage floor before removing the hard top,so I know the car will be in the exact position.
3. I use small rubber door wedges on the rear mounting points, which I remove after the rear pins have located.
We are stil in Europe after the excellent Merano event, so no pictires of the wedges at present.

Paul

[StevenF]

Paul
Thank you for the advice.  Enjoy Europe and return safely.  When you return, please email me a few of those pics of the wedges.
sjfreifeld@gmail.com
Best Regards
Steven

[Paul & Dolly]

Hi Steven,

We should be bavk in uk about 8th Oct,s o will send pics then,
Pau!l

[Pinder]

Steven,

Had to remove and install top on my 70 280SL. two people can do it but its not easy. I called my brother over to do it. that roof is not light and you need a strong back.the metal digs into your hands so a good pair of gloves helps. I only trust my brothers to do this not random people. Placement is crucial and direction prior to application helps.  I find it helps to go from trunk forward. the suggestion to buiild a shield out of hard card board is a good one. personally not done so.

[dpreston Virginia]

Hard tops are such a hassle. I had one for a 73 Vette took it off when I got the car home and put it on the day I sold it.
The Pagoda top is attractive on so its not so bad. Mine is staying in my basement suspended in the ceiling.
When I took it off me and my neighbor struggled to not mess something up....
Lifts are a good idea but, wow what a big thing to leave hanging......
If I put it on again I will have some substantial padding on the back of the car as suggested by Pinder.

[Sept]

I've taken the hardtop off several times, always with two people and have had no problems with this method. We either walk top back away from the car or have someone sit in the car and drive it away slowly from us as we hold it.  It sits on the top stand, covered, when not on the car.

[Paul & Dolly]

Hi Steven,

We are back from 2100 European miles now, at 19.6 Imperialmiles per gallon without any problems, really enjoyable event.

These are the soft rubber door wedges I use, I just use them to protect the area around the lock points when replacing the hardtop.

Hope this helps

Paul

[StevenF]

Paul,
They look like standard rubber door wedges...which should be easy to find.
Question--do you put them towards the rear as well?  do you have a pic?
Is there a sequence that you put them in/remove them?

Steven

[Paul & Dolly]

Hi Steven,

I just put them on the body behind the rear lock pins, approximatly where I show one on the photo.
I already put the roof on before our European trip, so will not remove it until next April now, so no relevant pictures unfortunatly.

I have perfect positioning of the car, as I have marked the garage floor so using the hoist,
I lower the roof down, and engage the foreward locks loosly, then locate the back ones, whilst the roof rests gently on the wedges, after checking proper positioning, I lower the hoist some more & remove the wedges and lock the rears and then fully lock the fronts.

It is always a bit of a jiggle, but is quite easy and safe with the type of hoist I have.

I hope this helps,

This is my hoist frame, I modified it from an Audi one....
The rear legs are removeable and just slip under the rear windows of the hardtop, whilst the front hook goes under the front.
If I can find any more appropiate pictures I will post them here.

Have fun

Paul

[StevenF]

Thank you for all the advice!

[ohoraherecaptain]

Hi Paul.
I'm pretty much in the same boat with my hardtop, so if you have any more pictures it would be great to see them.
John.

[uptheorg]

@ohoraherecaptain there is another thread with more info that is useful on this, including my own setup:
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=23685.msg185423#msg185423