The Perennial Question: MB Dealer or Independent?

[Eryck]

Authorized dealer garage or independent garages?

This question has always troubled me. Peace of mind is what (I think) I get from dealers but costs is the downside. Independent garages never really give me much confidence but then, I don't know any garages well enough. My 8 series BMW always go to the dealers but I am wondering what to do with my newly acquired 230 SL.  

For classics such as the 113, is it a good idea to go to MB dealers for services or does it make more sense to go to independent garages? Anyone have experiences with MB dealers?  Your views would be much appreciated.

1965 230 SL White Manual
Hong Kong

[J. Huber]

Of course, there is the third option: self. (I wouldn't go there but a few of you swear by it so I thought I'd throw it in).

As Dan C. has pointed out in a separate thread, having a competent, knowledgable MBZ mechanic is the best way to save yourself money with these cars. My experience has been that independents who know the car works best for me. They are more one-on-one and the rates are usually less. Most I have used started off with MBZ anyway.

James
63 230SL

[Kenneth Gear]

I think it's hit or miss with most dealerships.  My sense is that most do not have someone on staff who knows these cars well although there are some notable exceptions.

Many independent shops that specialize in MB have mechanics who were formerly employed at dealerships but branched out on there own.  It's really a matter or researching your local market, making a few calls and trial and error but I won't dismiss independent's outright.

Ken G
1971 280 SL
Silver/red

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by J. Huber

.... having a competent, knowledgable MBZ mechanic is the best way to save yourself money with these cars.

This is true, regardless if the person is at a MB dealership or at an independant shop.  Concern yourself with finding a good mechanic with W113 experience regardless of where they work.

And yes, you might want to do the simpler maintenance tasks yourself.  You'll get a great feeling of satisfaction, learn more details about your car, and over time you'll start doing more and more work yourself.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[n/a]

When I first bought my '71 280SL I learned the hard way that even "pristine condition" cars require significant repairs and improvements.  With the help of this website and numerous books I have learned to do some minor things on my own, with significant fun and satisfaction.  Having said that, I would emphasize that having a reliable MBZ mechanic who knows about the W113 is more useful than a doctor in the family.

Fortunately a friend of mine who also has an 'SL referred me to a local mechanic.  This mechanic has his own shop now but worked for years at a big MBZ dealership in town.  He also used to own a 280SL and knows the car inside and out.  He has been a phenomenal help.  He is located in the greater Los Angeles area (San Fernando Valley) for anyone that's interested.

Finally, I would say from personal experience to exercise caution at dealerships.  Several of the large dealerships in town have not had 'SL experts.  With the very high level of technology in newer cars, they are too busy keeping up with their current training.

Best of luck,

Joe
1971 280SL

[Bob G ✝︎]

Owning a classic Mercedes-Benz has its up sides and down. The down is that the mechanics at the dealers are all too young to now this car and chances are the dealership does not have the books and information needed to do a comprehensive job.
I recommend you ask members in your local area for the names of their mechanics and sit down with them to express your concerns and let the two of you put your cards on the table. You are going to have a working relationship throught the years with this cars so you want someone who can explain to you the ways to keep your SL healthy. Perhaps making several appointments starting off with an oil change service is a good way to get to know the way they will treat you and your SL.
The up side is no electronics and computers to go bad and classic sporting car that people still give the thums up to.
Good luck
Bob Geco

[Eryck]

Thank you all for your generous advice. I agree with most of you and will start to do some research. I will start with an oil change and then go from there. Later on down the road, I will also try to do some things myself. Totally agree that the dealerships will not be of much help in this case versus my BMW, which has a ton of electronics in it. Thank you again and happy holidays to all.

1965 230 SL White Manual
Hong Kong

[n/a]

The key, as everyone says, is the mechanic, not his shop. However, I found some MB dealers to be nice enough to give me a name of someone who would know these older cars... Spend time chating with the guy about cars... you will see pretty quickly if he is pationate about what he does....

Fabrice
Silver 1971 280 SL
New York City

[hands_aus]

Personally I am fed up with my MB authorised repairer.

Recently there was a clunking noise problem with the car so I took it to the local MB Service agent.
We took it for a test drive and the manager suggested replacing the rear axle bearings as well as the suspension rubbers.
The service manager "forgot" to tell the mechanic about the clunking noise in the axle area so he never took time to diagnose the problem before removing the whole assembly.

When I asked the mechanic what he thought the noise was he said he never knew anything about it. I then asked if doing this axle re-build would get rid of the clunking noise.
He said that maybe it would and maybe it wouldn't, the only way to be sure was to "DO" the drive shaft $$$$$$$$$$ (re-balance, new bearing, new bearing support bush, new flex disk/bolts, 2 new universal joints).

When I inspected the car before paying the bill I found the grommet on the locating strut missing.

The mechanic said the old one was worn so he didn't replace it. He also said that any water that entered through the hole would drain out of the hole of the body plug he had removed.

He offered to have a look around the workshop to see if there was a grommet that would "DO-THE-JOB". I checked, there would have been a 3 week delay for it to arrive from Germany because there weren't any correct grommets in Australia so he didn't bother to put one in.

I insisted that the genuine MB $27.00 grommet and plug be replaced.

The grommet has been installed at no cost for labour ($102.00/hour).

If I hadn't done an inspection I would never have known of the missing grommet and the mechanic would never have mentioned it.

I despair!

The whole job cost me $4500.00 with me supplying most of the MB parts bought from the USA (Calibre Motors) because of MB Australia price rip-off. It would have cost about $6000.00 if I had bought the parts in Australia.

As a follow up, the mechanic called me the next day and asked if I would GIVE them my old RH Side $316.00 rear wheel bearing because they were rebuilding the rear axle of a 190SL that was being driven from Brisbane to Adelaide to participate in the Adelaide FIA Rally then the car was being driven all the way back (2000-3000 miles) and they couldn't locate the correct bearing anywhere in Brisbane. It would have taken 2 days and the car was to leave before the new bearing would have been available to install.

The rear wheel bearings in my car didn't need to be replaced if the 190sl could safely drive all that way on them.

They made me pay for the new $27.00 grommet but I had to GIVE them the old $316.00 bearing to save their backsides with a well healed customer.

This MB Service agent does lots of mechanical work for an Internationally known Car Restoration business that restores cars from all around the world including the USA. They only do $300K plus type jobs.

Today I was checking the fluid levels and I found the metal Wing-Nut on the power steering fluid reservoir had been replaced with a plastic one.

The cover of the power steering reservoir was loose and when I tried to tighten it the thread of the plastic Wing-Nut was stripped and the fluid level was low by about half.

I have no idea why that was touched.

I was supposed to be going on a country drive today. Imagine the potential problems if I had  not done my usual checks.

Further, I checked under the car and found a bolt missing from the rear transmission mount plate. It would have been removed when they replaced the flex disk and drive shaft.

I also found the electrical terminal block on the side of the transmission looks like a new one, the screws shine with no oil or dirt anywhere.

I am not sure what has gone on with my car but I will be aproaching the mechanic real soon.

They had my car for 4 weeks.

No on else has been near my car without me being there.

I really hate being put in this position by anybody but it is even worse because this place is an AUTHORISED MB SERVICE AGENT.

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

[bpossel]

Hi Bob,

Your ordeal with the dealer sounds terrible!  

Just to expand a bit on "parts" for our cars.....

I would demand all of the missing, original parts, back.  Don't accept the "plastic" replacements...

fyi...  in checking some pricing recently, the thin chrome/stainless trim piece that covers the gap in the middle of our front bumpers is now selling for $109 (USD).  Parts for our cars continue to climb, so I would demand all of your original parts back...

Also, in terms of your wheel bearing, I agree, if they can use it for a rally, it's good...

Is the clunking noise now gone???

Bob

bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320

[Eryck]

Thanks Bob for your insights. It is very helpful. I was actually going to check out prices for parts in Australia because my brothers live there but now I know that they are more expensive than the US (like everything else down under!).  Also confirms that Authorised MB Dealers don't mean much. It all depends on the individual mechanic.

Thanks everyone for your views. At least I now have some directions...

1965 230 SL White Manual
Hong Kong

[hands_aus]

Hey Eryck and Bob,
Eryck, try the aussie sites. You have nothing to lose.

Bob, Yes the clunking noise is gone now and so it should be.

I actually asked and received the old parts back. That is why they had to ask me for the wheel bearing.
My worry was that if they had kept it, they might have installed it and charged the 190sl owner full price.

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

[Naj ✝︎]

Bob (from Oz),
Do you know what caused the clonking??
naj

65 230SL
68 280SL

[hands_aus]

Hey Naj,

No, the mechanic wasn't told about it before he removed the whole assembly, so I never found out the cause.

BTW did you receive the two emails I sent you privately?

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

[Naj ✝︎]

Yes Bob,
Got your emails today.
Will respond shortly.
naj

65 230SL
68 280SL