Author Topic: trailing arm bushing washer question  (Read 2867 times)

merrill

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trailing arm bushing washer question
« on: December 23, 2017, 18:17:58 »
hello
in the middle of replacing the trailing arm bushings on  my 66.

i have the drivers side apart.   there are 2 plastic washers between the arm and the axle.

on my car the drivers side both were white. 

the kit from MB has 2 white and 2 black.   

my question is does it matter which color washers go where?

photos attached
thank you in advance - matt
Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

Neil

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Re: trailing arm bushing washer question
« Reply #1 on: December 23, 2017, 21:14:56 »
Just done this. My kit had 4 white washers so I imagine they are interchangeable. Check that they are dimensionally the same.

merrill

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Re: trailing arm bushing washer question
« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2018, 15:29:33 »
well replacing the trailing arm bushings is done,  overall it was not that hard.

I did have a few issues while doing the job.

1. un and re bending the lock washers for the 36 mm bolts. due to tight quarters where they were bent. 
2. aligning the trailing arms and starting the 36 mm bolts.  my fault as i did not jack the car up high enough so i had to manage the spring and arm
3. i had one 36 mm bolt that did not want to break free. i ended up putting a socked on a breaker bar and then the breaker bar on a floor jack under tension overnight.  by the next am it came free.

overall not a bad job.  my bushings were not torn but were hard compared to the new ones.   

thanks to the tips James Howard posted on using a vise to compress the bushing plates to remove and install the locking clips.
Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

doitwright

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Re: trailing arm bushing washer question
« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2018, 16:58:21 »
well replacing the trailing arm bushings is done,  overall it was not that hard.

I did have a few issues while doing the job.

1. un and re bending the lock washers for the 36 mm bolts. due to tight quarters where they were bent. 
2. aligning the trailing arms and starting the 36 mm bolts.  my fault as i did not jack the car up high enough so i had to manage the spring and arm
3. i had one 36 mm bolt that did not want to break free. i ended up putting a socked on a breaker bar and then the breaker bar on a floor jack under tension overnight.  by the next am it came free.

overall not a bad job.  my bushings were not torn but were hard compared to the new ones.   

thanks to the tips James Howard posted on using a vise to compress the bushing plates to remove and install the locking clips.

At the last PUB Gernold pointed out on Hausers car (while up on a lift) how the new bushing he had installed seemed to look distorted after installation and driving. He commented that he believed the rubber compounds are different than what they used to be. I do not think it has any impact on drivability, just appearance.

Did you see anything like this in your case?
Frank Koronkiewicz
Willowbrook, Illinois

1970 280SL Originally Light Ivory - Now Anthracite Gray Metallic

merrill

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Re: trailing arm bushing washer question
« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2018, 15:31:26 »
Frank
hi,
no , i did not notice any distortion after installation and driving.

I did use the MB kit from the classic center.  not sure if aftermarket suppliers have a different rubber compound.

also prior to installation i lubricated the inside and outer edges of the rubber bushings with Napa Sil- GLyde.


matt
Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

Benz Dr.

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Re: trailing arm bushing washer question
« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2018, 08:20:43 »
I used Cox racing bushings on mine. They really plant everything in a very precise way.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC