Softtop Frame Adjustment

[jedwards]

Gentlemen,
I have an early 250SL and I am replacing the soft-top.
I am (trying) to take advantage of  having the bare frame to see if I can adjust out the dreaded “v” in top window seal that seems all too common amongst the forum members.  However I am making no progress,  so hope that this forum can provide some advice.
My car is pretty original so I believe the frame is the correct one for my car, and I have no excess movement in any of the joints.   

Frame location – what is correct?
Easing off the frame securing bolts provides about 1” of travel for the frame, however even with the frame at its most forward position, the  lock pins don’t fall happily into the lock holes on the windscreen frame.  (picture attached).  They sit a good ½” back, just touching the edge of the chrome.  The frame  is as far forward as the body will allow. To get the pins to drop into the lock holes, the  front edge of the frame needs to be kicked up a little, (picture attached) and this puts the “v” in the bar above the window that does not go away completely once secured.

Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

[mbzse]

he dreaded “v” in top window seal.../... that does not go away completely once secured.
Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

You are doing the right thing by adjusting and fine tuning the frame attachment before adding the (new) softtop fabric.

Was your softtop frame mechanism working ok before you now decided to remove it? Seems odd that it would suddenly change its geometry(?)

In principle, the steps are:
1. First put on your hard top. Adjust the side windows to perfectly fit and work against the seals in the hard top. If the windows are affected by the proverbial "W113 wobble" you would be advised to fix this at this point. See "eliminate window rattles" in our Wiki.
2. Put the soft top frame onto the car. Adjust it so that it snugly fits on to the rolled-up side windows. Adjustment points are the anchoring points at the B pillar (one can fit shim plates here) and also the rear bow can be adjusted. Some slight adjustment (shimming) can also be performed at the two front lock attachments. As an extra measure, if needed to make side window pane and rubber seal meet, one can shim up with metal strips between softtop frame members and the metal rails that the window rubber seals are fitted onto. Somewhat advanced this last step.
3. When you are completely pleased with the fit of your frame (and that it folds up and down smoothly), you can then proceed by putting the soft top fabric on (glue and screws)

Some info on the "V" issue in this posting:
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=19801.msg139666#msg139666

/Hans in Sweden
.

[jameshsk]

Hi I have the same problem with my soft top it just does not meet the front locking holes. Did you find a solution as i would love to know?
Thanks
James

[cfm65@me.com]

Hi Guys,
I agree with Hans. Fit the hardtop and adjust the windows to the hardtop. Then fit the soft top frame and adjust the frame to fit the windows before fitting the fabric to the frame.
The hardtop is not adjustable. So you cant do it the other way round.
It is quite normal for the soft top locks pins to be a half inch, or so short of the front locks. This ensures that the soft top sits nice and taught.
As James also noted. His front pins are also a little short of the locks.
Nothing as bad as a loose soft top cover, balooning like crazy at speed. A Pagoda soft top should maintain its shape at speed, should not billow up to look like a VW Beetle.
Regards
Chris
Cape Town