Mischievous Motor Mounts

[PeterW113]

Hello all,

I am struggling to remove the motor mounts, I have reasonable access as the Hood, Grill, Radiator, Air filter and Alternator are out of the way. The 19mm top bolt and two Hex bolts are removed from both left & right mounts, and the engine is raised on a trolley jack.

I am attempting to remove the UK Driver side mount first (the exhaust side) and the Mount is free to move around.

However, I am just not able to raise the engine high enough to remove the mount as bolt #6 is in the way.

•   Are you meant to remove bolt #6 first if so, how is it done?
•   Is it possible that something is restricting the engine that I have not figured?
•   Is there another way?

As always, all pointers gratefully received.

Cheers

Peter

[cabrioletturbo]

Have you tried putting hexes back then unscrewing #6, then removing hexes?

[PeterW113]

Hi no I haven’t, my car is still on it’s wheels.

Can you remove #6 from under the car?

I looked but it didn’t seem possible?

Peter

[cabrioletturbo]

Through the hole on subframe

[PeterW113]

Thanks

I will look more carefully, it’s seems that taking the wheels off may be required?

[Jonny B]

I did a bit of searching (the search is your friend) but be sure to use the main search function, the one just to the left to "Technical Manual" in the string of commands.

In any case this string (albeit for LHD) should help
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=703.msg3249#msg3249

I was trying to recall when I changed mine some years back, but I believe you do not need to remove the bottom bolt to extract the mount itself. Just the two allen/hex head bolts on each, and the top bolt that goes through the engine mounting arm.

[mrfatboy]

Tyler S and I just did mine last month.  The 19mm and both allen bolts were removed. The engine was then jacked up. 

We did have full access. Both intake and exhaust manifolds happened to be off at the time.

We jacked up one side at a time and they both came out easy.  Maybe that's the trick.

[Shvegel]

It is only 4 nuts to get the mount arm out of your way.

[ja17]

You can gain more access by removing the wheel and working through the wheel opening also. Normally takes about an hour per side. Remove and replace one at a time. You can loosen both sides at the same time. Remove only one side at a time. Raise the engine on one side at a time to remove the mount. Also the large bolts are 19mm heads.

[PeterW113]

Johnny B, Many thanks that is really helpful. I had looked through various posts and it was just my luck not to find the one that counted.

mrfatboy, shvegal and Joe,

I have corrected the reference to 19mm bolts to avoid confusion.

Looks like I am on the right track, I just managed to pick the wrong side to start with. I am away for a few days and when I am back I will tackle the fuel pump side first.

Assuming that works, when I attend to the exhaust side, I will include wheel and mount arm removal if required.

Thanks for the help and guidance.

Cheers

Peter

[Tyler S]

Just be sure the valve cover is not colliding with the hood latch. Removing the valve cover and loosening the single large transmission mount bolt under the car will let you raise the engine a bit higher.

For anyone else doing this, you need to remove the cooling fan shroud as well.

[Tom in seattle]

Pay attention to Tyler S.  It is likely that your new motor mounts are taller than the ones you will remove due to shrinkage .  I put a piece of biscuit dough on top of the valve cover and closed the hood slowly.  There was not enough clearance so I also changed the rear mount and the engine then clears the hood.

[Tyler S]

Yes the new mounts being taller and the possibility that the subframe mounts have also perished can bring the engine up/body down quite a bit.
When changing the transmission mount, keep track of any shims/washers removed from the area between the mount and support plate. These are to keep driveline alignment correct.

[PeterW113]

Tom and Tyler S,

Thanks for the additional advice, I will be home tonight so plan to try again. The rear motor mount has recently been changed so hopefully no clearance issues with the hood, but the heads up is appreciated as I probably would have put the hood on without checking.


Peter

[ja17]

It's always a tight fit. Be sure to do most the lifting on the side your changing. Supporting the car from the large frame members on each side of the transmission bell housing will allow the whole sub-frame and suspension and engine to move down further giving you more room to install the mounts. Do not go back too far on this frame. The heavy, weight-supporting metal only goes back about 4 inches. After that the it becomes weaker and non structural. Work safely, use good stands, chaulk rear wheels, store the tires and wheels you have off the front end, under the car as safety stops.

[PeterW113]

Joe et al,

I managed to successfully get the job done tonight!

Following everyones helpful insight, I got the Fuel filter side changed out first followed by the exhaust side. I managed to do it without removing the wheel, rocker cover or engine mount arm. I was able to raise the engine just enough without the rocker cover binding, phew!

Having the radiator, grill  & hood out of the way cetainly helped the access.

My top tool tip was the use of 6mm Hex Bolt bits along with a 10mm ratchet spanner, they certainly helped with the motor mount fixing hex bolts in the confined space. The shaft length of the Hex Bit allowed the rachet spanner to find the optimum position.

Now back to my other post " Leaky Head Bolt" as I now need to decide wether to replace the crankshaft seal or leave well alone.

Thank you all once agian for your valued guidance and encouragement.

Peter