Author Topic: cost of restoring 1968 280SL from good to prime condition incl respray  (Read 5627 times)

Be

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Hi

We have inherited a 1968 280SL.  It has just passed an MOT after around 1Kof work and being in storage for over a decade.  We have been advised it isn't original colour so would need a respray and isn't in prime condition.  We have been advised to get it to prime condition it will be around 80k of work.  Does that sound as expected?

cabrioletturbo

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No person, including experts, would be able to tell you if that is appropriate amount for a restoration without seeing and inspecting your car thoroughly.
Even then, it is expected that *some* issues will be revealed during the restoration and that usually means higher costs to you.
Igor
1965 W113 230SL, Ivory with Black

JamesL

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Agree with Igor

Drive it and use it and stagger the cost of getting it where you want.

Have a look at ScotCorvettes thread in the general forum. He’s skilled and doing all the work himself on what was sold as a good car. Imagine the cost of the hours he has in that car and you’re very quickly approaching - or busting through - 80k

The same is true of a 911 or an old Alfa, Ferrari or Ford... The man-maths is what it’s worth(to you) at the end of the process. As an heirloom it may well be worth preserving it to the condition it was when it came into the family.  Or it may not but the “wrong” colour shouldn’t detract from enjoying a great car
James L
Oct69 RHD 280 in DB906 with cognac leather

Benz Dr.

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What color is your car right now and what was the original color? My car is signal red but was originally forest green. I would had to call it the Green Monster instead of the Red Rocket but I kind of like the later. Since your car is no longer original, and let's face it, few are, why worry about it.

I tell everyone the same thing: ' It will take longer than you expect and cost more than you want '. That's the nature of old cars.

If you want a firm price some places will make it so high it will choke you. Other places will be low and start cutting corners to meet the estimate. I work on a '' time and materials '' format. If I could  see all of the problems I might encounter ahead of time, or I could see through paint or inside of engines I would be able to ball park it. I can't and I won't. I charge for the hours my guys work on your car but generally don't add very much for myself.

You should be able to get a lot done for 80K. If your car is a good driver you could go the rolling restoration route which means drive in the summer and restore in the winter. Mechanical stuff first, then paint, then interior. If you draw it out over 4 or 5 years it won't be too much per year and you can get to drive it during most of that time period to sort out mechanical problems. If you don't have a purchase price to consider you are already well if front of the curve. 
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

Rolf-Dieter ✝︎

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I too agree with what has been said so far. I have been in the Steam and Gas Turbine field service business for 25 years and some (not many) of my customers have ask me the same questions before a "major inspection" They wanted to know the cost of the entire project before I brought our crew on site.

I always responded to our Customers as follows "I can provide a fairly accurate cost for the disassembly and reassembly of your turbine" You then can budget for that amount and add a continuencey to your budget based upon the unforeseen and parts required (may they be parts requiring refurbishing and or replacement(.

You see much of what is found during a major inspection depends a lot on how the unit was operated and what was done during the last inspection. I often quoted the Customer as an option a pre-shutdown test run to check performance and vibration. After I then issued a report my Customer could ask for funds to replace bearings or seals valve seats (inlet, extraction or even stop valve). You see the afore,emtioned parts are prone to wear and like on our cars are very expensive as well.   

So you see your car is very much like a turbine it has rotating parts like your car, it has highly machined mating joints that can leak etc. etc. Only a good test drive of your car and performance checks can provide some anwsers as to what you can expect. And then it can only be an estimate.

In the final analysis it all depends what the car is to you. Will you show it at high class car shows and like it to be judged. Then you need to bite the bullet and get everything done. Mind you costs may well exceed what you would have payed for a car that was in top shape to begin with.

Your best bet IMHO at this point would be;

1) Find a good Mechanic and have him/her test drive your car.
2) Have the Mechanic make a list of "Urgent" and "Not so Urgent" items.
3) Put a $ figure behind each item.
4) Concentrate on the "Urgent" items
5) Then over time do the "Not so Urgent" items

Remember, if the work includes engine & transmission disassembly and reassembly costs for parts requiring refurbishment and or replacement can only be established once your Mechanic can put his hands on them and check the conditions and clearances etc. As for the body you need to know if there is any rust if there is that is an entire different and very costly project.

Good Luck and keep us informed how you make out.

Best

Dieter

DD 2011 SL 63 AMG and my 69 Pagoda 280 SL

jaymanek

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I have just taken my car to tbe bodyshop to address some colour mismatch issues and some very minor pimple type spots in the paint.

Turns out whenever it was painted in the past, some moisure has gotten trapped and these spots are minute spots of corrosion.

So what was a 1 week minor paint job, has now turned into a bare metal respray and all of the extras that come with tearing a car down that far.

:(

So id say that you can spend money quickly on these cars.. So either enjoy as they are or go all in!
« Last Edit: June 07, 2018, 10:52:14 by jaymanek »

JamesL

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Handily, Jay has another car to drive while his Pagoda is being painted. ;D
James L
Oct69 RHD 280 in DB906 with cognac leather

Be

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Thanks so much for these incredibly helpful responses- really helpful to us with so little understanding / knowledge regarding classic cars. We will get it running and take it from there!

stickandrudderman

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Before you part with a penny, be sure to establish that your chosen vendor has plenty of experience on these cars. They are idiosyncratic and only someone with the requisite knowledge and experience will be able to give you what you are paying for.
Naturally, these people don’t come cheap.
Hilton and Moss recently quoted me 65k plus materials just to rebuild a rotten bare shell.

Shvegel

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Things like engines are fairly consistent.  It is when you get to “What’s under the paint?”  Colin Ferns of Colin Ferns Ltd is actually a member here. To his credit he does not solicit business through the forums.  He knows these cars top to bottom and I am sure at the very least you could hire him to look the car over and give you an honest opinion.  Some cars deserve to be taken back to new.  With some cars a sympathetic refurbishment might be in order.  My advice to you is to drive the car and decide if it is something you are attached to.  If not sell it as is. You cannot pay someone to fully restore a car like ours and still make a profit if you sell.  Be sure you are in love before you pay for the divorce.
« Last Edit: June 10, 2018, 18:53:06 by Shvegel »

stickandrudderman

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“Be sure you are in love before you pay for the divorce”
Love it!