Valve Keepers 280SL

[MikeSimon]

I am limping along! I found a number of new rocker arms and quite a few used ball studs which probably help me to pick the best ones to use. Would prefer new stuff, though. Anybody who can come up with a source for the correct rocker arms and ball studs....??

[MikeSimon]

So, I guess this thread addressed the issue two years ago. Assume it has not gotten any better....?

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=24231.0

[Tyler S]

The MB-Classics price of 35 euros ($40) for the repros is about the cheapest price out there. All of the smaller obscure vendors seem to have dried up on stock. Even one of my old go-to’s

[MikeSimon]

Here I am again with an amateur question - I hope you guys don't think of me as a nuisance...

I was able to source quite a few ball studs from a local dismantler which are supposed to be used but show very little, almost no, wear. I plan to replace my worn ones and pair the studs with new rocker arms, which are still available in numbers.

Reading here about the problems with aluminum threads coming out of the head when the whole units are taken out, I had planned to just take the upper ball stud out and leave the lower part sit. Now, it takes quite some effort (torque) to unscrew the ball stud, but putting the replacement one back in is fairly easy. Before I screw up with the otheres, does something happen to the thread inside the ball stud when you take them apart?

[mbzse]

.../...it takes quite some effort (torque) to unscrew the ball stud, but putting the replacement one back in is fairly easy.../...

You want the high torque to be there...  this is so that the ball stud does not twist on its own when your engine runs, and ruins your valve gap setting.
Two methods (others are up to your ingenuity...) is either to press lower part of stud in a vice, so that it becomes slightly oval. Another is to "alter" the lower threads on the stud, so that they turn with enough resistance in the base part

[MikeSimon]

Does this mean, that when I took the upper out, the threads got loose? I do not want to take the lower out for reasons mentioned. I am afraid that if I "alter" the threads of the upper part, I may do some irreversible damage to the unit. Has someone worked with, maybe, a Teflon wrapping on the threads to make them tighter?

[Tyler S]

Try re-installing one of your old studs. If it is again tight then most likely the second hand units thread is worn. i wouldnt use teflon tape because you will need to adjust the valves and that tape is kind of a one time use thing.

[MikeSimon]

What is the purpose of the two (upper and lower) thread segments on the ball studs?

[Tyler S]

The threads are cut slightly different (offset) between the upper and lower parts. This gives the interference fit needed to keep the upper stud tight and not back off/change your adjustment.

[MikeSimon]

The MB-Classics price of 35 euros ($40) for the repros is about the cheapest price out there. All of the smaller obscure vendors seem to have dried up on stock. Even one of my old go-to’s

MB Classics indeed came through! The price for a complete unit upon checkout was only 30 Euros/piece. Even with the expensive shipping via DHL from Germany, this is a great deal compared to some prices quoted elsewhere.