Author Topic: Rear differential - checks  (Read 2214 times)

swood1

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Rear differential - checks
« on: May 21, 2019, 12:54:43 »
Hi all,

Just been stripping my rear suspension down.  I haven't yet removed the drive shafts, my intention is to check and replace all perishable items.  Can anyone advise on the steps I should be taking for checking my rear differential?  The intention is to strip the centre axle and replace the sleeved rubber bush.  I would also like to replace the UJ gaiter so was thinking of stripping the drive shafts and the drive shaft tubes.

Any advice/guidance welcome.

Steve

250 SL (early), in bits. Triumph TR4a

Benz Dr.

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Re: Rear differential - checks
« Reply #1 on: May 21, 2019, 19:27:10 »
Make sure you mark the position of everything on your drive shaft if you take it apart. Drive shafts are carefully balanced and any disturbance or misalignment may upset the entire assembly.

Whatever you do, DON"T remove the pinion bearings. Any movement of the crown and pinion gears and you might as well look for another axle. It can be set up but not by mere mortals and it would likely cost a lot to do.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

swood1

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Re: Rear differential - checks
« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2019, 20:46:01 »
Ah sorry when I said drive shaft I meant axle shafts, the shafts that connect to the wheels.  My main drive shaft has already been removed and I marked that with a dot punch.  To be honest the differential itself feels tight, I was going to remove the Pinion coupling flange using a modified socket as it looks like I need to take this off so I can replace the centre axle sleeved rubber bush etc.  I also wanted to remove the axle shafts so I could replace the bellow with a new one piece one.  It would have been nice if I could have got into the differential to check the play in the crown wheel with a DTI but I am not sure this is achievable without a full teardown.








250 SL (early), in bits. Triumph TR4a

Benz Dr.

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Re: Rear differential - checks
« Reply #3 on: May 21, 2019, 22:48:44 »
You will need to remove the flange on the pinion to get everything apart. Carefully mark the pinion nut before you start tear down so you can tighten the nut back to the same spot.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

ja17

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Re: Rear differential - checks
« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2019, 05:41:45 »
This is quite a project for the first-timer.  I have made a lot of special tools over the years to help make this project easier. It becomes a lot easier after doing several. Ask a lot of questions and we will try to save you from making the usual mistakes.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

swood1

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Re: Rear differential - checks
« Reply #5 on: May 22, 2019, 10:56:01 »
Thanks all,

There is always a first time for everything and I am a qualified watch and clock repairer and also work as a Freelance Automotive Validation engineer. But I originally served my time as a Toolmaker before the industry all went abroad. so happy with new mechanical challenges.  I also have my own workshop.. currently making a tool this week to allow me to remove the nut holding the flange in place, I have read on the forum but I dont want to destroy a perfectly good socket  :) 

I will mark the parts, and get some photos of the assembly so the forum can feedback.

Also, I have been struggling to release the pistons in the rear brake calipers.... the front ones I freed using a little heat. 


Steve

250 SL (early), in bits. Triumph TR4a

DaveB

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Re: Rear differential - checks
« Reply #6 on: May 22, 2019, 21:43:04 »
Removing pistons - I've seen brake rebuilders do it, they pump a fluid into the caliper to force the piston out.
DaveB
'65 US 230sl 4-speed, DB190

swood1

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Re: Rear differential - checks
« Reply #7 on: May 23, 2019, 06:55:33 »
Hi Dave,

I have been thinking similar if soaking them in oil doesnt work. 

Failing all this it's new rear calipers for me...

Steve
250 SL (early), in bits. Triumph TR4a

450sl

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Re: Rear differential - checks
« Reply #8 on: May 23, 2019, 13:44:51 »
better to use a grease gun to pump out pistons , less messy.......:just fit a grease nipple into the brakeline hole and pump away..

Atazman

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Re: Rear differential - checks
« Reply #9 on: May 23, 2019, 16:07:13 »
I use compressed air.  No fuss; no muss.
Don
67 250 Sl
(#3168) from Italy
5-speed/Posi/AC/Kinder

swood1

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Re: Rear differential - checks
« Reply #10 on: May 23, 2019, 20:42:57 »
I have tried compressed air, no joy...
250 SL (early), in bits. Triumph TR4a

Bonnyboy

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Re: Rear differential - checks
« Reply #11 on: May 23, 2019, 21:12:15 »
Grease is a much safer approach in my opinion to ease out the piston.  Major chance of squishing digits with air.  I got a hint to put a piece of wood slightly smaller than the distance the piston could travel if it lets go in the caliper so that the piston doesn't fly out and damage something.  Then clean it all out.


Ian
69 280SL
65 F-100
73 CB750K
75 MGB
78 FLH
82 CB750SC
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