My key had never fallen out. I would not say it is loose, but it certainly is not tight.
Problem if I change the lock, I'll end up changing them all?
biffabeau, I think it may still be far from conclusion on lock change.
Assuming it was ok before and that the issue is that you have power on connector 15 on the ignition coil after the key is turned off, I looked at the wiring diagram and there may be several points where the circuit 30 (constant power) and 15 or 54 (power after ignition) meet:
1. By design, as per WRe post, fluid level control circuit and door switches circuit
2. By accident, when e.g. one of the wires gets lose. I have never experienced this kind of situation as yours, but if it did happen to me, I would probably look at going along circuits trying to determine where the short is (can be quite a few checks):
- do the blinkers work or e.g. wipers with ignition off?
- fuses 1 and 2 - are they sitting tight?
- If you measure with ohm meter - is there a short between fuse 1 and 2 brackets?
- Are the wires connected to them on both ends fitting tight where they are supposed to and none of them is lose and shorting fuse 1 to fuse 2?
- wires attached to ignition switch - are they sitting tight where they are supposed to or one of them is shorting pin 15 and 30?
- I would check with ohm meter if the ignition switch is ok - with key off or out - is there a connection in the switch between pin 30 and pin 15 - should not be; I think that if the switch is damaged, you can replace just the switch, not switch with lock. If the lock does ot turn the switch - this is another story.
Again, I am not sure if the above makes sense, but unless other more educated advise is provided - this is what I would look at. If I did not find anything - there would be further checks.
Just be careful and do not disconnect the battery when the engine is running to stop it, as you may damage VR, I think. Disconnect wire from connector 15 on ignition coil or any of the wires on the rsistor, I think this is best to stop the engine.
