Author Topic: Problem making speaker fit in the dash.  (Read 3832 times)

Benz Dr.

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  • Benz Dr.
Problem making speaker fit in the dash.
« on: August 28, 2019, 19:18:57 »
Anyone else had problems making the speaker fit? Seems it hits against various areas in the dash and will hit the heater controls when they're moved. What did you do as a solution?
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

Peter

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Re: Problem making speaker fit in the dash.
« Reply #1 on: August 28, 2019, 19:56:00 »
you also have the problem when you use the rubber spacers? See picture

66andBlue

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Re: Problem making speaker fit in the dash.
« Reply #2 on: August 28, 2019, 20:24:55 »
Hi Dan,
you can buy an installation kit here: https://www.authenticclassics.com/Dash-Speaker-Inst-Hardware-Kit-230SL-250SL-280SL-p/auth-005372.htm
if any of your parts are missing.
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)

ja17

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Re: Problem making speaker fit in the dash.
« Reply #3 on: August 28, 2019, 22:53:08 »
The replacement heater controls are slightly different. The grey lever (upper right) originally has one raised protrusion which was ground flat during original manufacturing. The replacement control does not have the raised boss ground flat. As a consequence the raised boss contact the speaker magnet when the control is moved. You can remove the speaker and grind flat the raised boss with a Dremel tool and all should be well. Carefully study the original and the replacement grey heater control to see where to grind. Grinding the heater control prior to installation is easiest, if you are aware of the issue.


Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

pj

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Re: Problem making speaker fit in the dash.
« Reply #4 on: August 29, 2019, 00:58:17 »
There's the photo that's referenced in the technical manual
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=22347.0;attach=36468;image

and how about this one? Does this show the bit that's protruding too much?
Peter J
1965 230SL #09474 named Dagny
2018 B250 4matic named Rigel

ja17

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Re: Problem making speaker fit in the dash.
« Reply #5 on: August 29, 2019, 06:05:30 »
Hi pj,

Those look fine. As far as I know only the later soft rubber/plastic heater controls have the problem.  I will try to post some pictures later.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

mrfatboy

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Re: Problem making speaker fit in the dash.
« Reply #6 on: August 29, 2019, 13:26:42 »
I replaced all my heater controls a couple of years ago. I was able to reuse the original and correct color plastic pieces while only substituting the new black hand knobs from Febi.

A member, Tyler S developed the process here:

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=25935.0


I also remember grinding down one of the new Febi controls to make it fit but I think that was exactly the same time (same day) Tyler came up with the new process and I switched back and kept my original color control.pieces.

I will try to post a picture.
1969 280sl (Aug 1968 build)
Signal Red
4 Speed

ja17

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Re: Problem making speaker fit in the dash.
« Reply #7 on: August 29, 2019, 14:05:45 »
Seems like different suppliers are suppling different shades of the original colors these days. When the colors of the controls are not exactly correct I also re-use the original plastic part of the controls. It adds a lot of time to the job and can be tedious to change the new rubber part of the controls to the original plastic. In addition you must be very careful to keep from cracking the delicate thin plastic, when riveting the rubber parts in place. Removing the old tiny brass rivets also is tedious. I found some nice hollow brass rivets to use, just like the originals, you must be sure to have them flush when installed or they may snag on the metal control frame. If you have the early hard solid plastic controls like pj, you do not have to worry about these problems.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback