Author Topic: master cylinder replacement  (Read 2695 times)

russelljones48

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master cylinder replacement
« on: August 23, 2019, 12:49:42 »
Since I am the worst search person even though I have an advanced degree in data base admin...  I thought I'd detail my findings on my MC replacement. I haven't found it difficult but wanted to explain some possible challenges and outline the procedure I used

1.) I ordered the Centric MC from Rockauto for my 1967 230SL.  Low and behold it is an ATE and it was the right one.
CENTRIC   13035001 (130.35001)   Master Cylinder   $ 158.89

2.) Figuring that the minor leak would be solved and there was no damage to the booster, I siphoned the reservoirs and unbolted the mc. I was right about the booster but didn't actually have all the parts I needed for a leak proof re-assembly.  BTW once the reservoirs are drained with a turkey baster and siphon tube I had very little fluid drip out and it was easily managed with a couple of rags stuffed under the mc.


3.) the mc from RA came with the O ring for the mc to booster seal but NOT the O ring for the forward reservoir or the seal for the back reservoir.
I have now ordered the rear seal for $8 (and a new reservoir) from Vintage Euro Parts in Ca.  I will use a standard O ring to replace the front O ring and hopefully it will all fit and be leak free. 


4.) my guess after having torn it apart is that the leak was not in the mc itself but in the rear reservoir seal - the $8 part.  It was gooey and disintegrated when I pulled it out and appeared to be the source of the fluid leak.  :-(

5.)  back at it - the parts finally arrived - i'm tempted to castigate the USPS but won't flog that dead horse.  I love old cars because everything is a bit of an adventure.  I fitted the new reservoir and gasket and noticed that the rear seal and rear reservoir wasn't seating solidly down on the the mc.  note: use a tiny bit of silicone on the rubber grommet and it will press into the mc easily.  I noticed that the new reservoir had flashing between the bowls so I cleaned that out with a box knife and tried again.  It's seating down a little more but not completely - but I think it's good enough and will seal fine since it isn't under any pressure.

6.) I've decided, "while I'm in there", to replace the flexible lines with Bud's SS flex lines so I'm waiting for them now.  Should have thought of this earlier......

7.) Buds took a couple of phone call reminders but the parts (braided SS hoses for all 4 corners) arrived a few days ago and they are installed and the brakes bled and working - short road test, to be followed by some more extensive driving in the next few days.  The hoses are relatively easy since I have a lift.  The LR would be easier with the fuel pump cover removed but not all that bad.

8.) Since I have a power bleeder I chose not to bench bleed the MC which turned out to be a mistake since the power bleeder chose to "not work".  With the help of a friend I bled the MC and then all 4 corners - no leaks so far and the pedal feels very firm.   
« Last Edit: September 05, 2019, 14:49:23 by russelljones48 »

Cees Klumper

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Re: master cylinder replacement
« Reply #1 on: August 23, 2019, 19:35:06 »
Thanks for sharing, very informative. I don't recall much discussion on the MC so perhaps it's not your search skills!
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

teahead

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Re: master cylinder replacement
« Reply #2 on: August 23, 2019, 19:39:20 »
Be sure to let us know part #s for future reference!

Even if your MC was good, no harm in putting in a new and/or rebuilt one in after 40+ years on the original.
1970 280SL auto, AC - aka "Edelweiss"

russelljones48

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Re: master cylinder replacement
« Reply #3 on: August 23, 2019, 20:17:01 »
I will continue the post and agree that "while I was in there" I might as well replace and refurbish the system.  After 52 years it's earned a retirement...  the number 116 O-ring from my McMaster kit looks like it will fit and do the job.. 

russelljones48

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Re: master cylinder replacement
« Reply #4 on: August 28, 2019, 12:43:25 »
also in the original post

5.)  back at it - the parts finally arrived - i'm tempted to castigate the USPS but won't flog that dead horse.  I love old cars because everything is a bit of an adventure.  I fitted the new reservoir and gasket and noticed that the rear seal and rear reservoir wasn't seating solidly down on the the mc.  note: use a tiny bit of silicone on the rubber grommet and it will press into the mc easily.  I noticed that the new reservoir had flashing between the bowls which wasn't there in the original bowls so I cleaned that out with a box knife and tried again.  It's seating down a little more but not completely - but I think it's good enough and will seal fine since it isn't under any pressure.

6.) I've decided, "while I'm in there", to replace the flexible lines with Bud's SS flex lines so I'm waiting for them now.  Should have thought of this earlier......

Mike K

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Re: master cylinder replacement
« Reply #5 on: August 28, 2019, 19:56:29 »
I undertook this exercise a few years ago. Redid the whole brake system, installed new calipers, new brake pads, new lines, braided stainless steel hoses, new discs and new hand brake shoes.

The one thing I recommend if you haven't done so already, is to bench bleed the master cylinder prior to installation.

See my post here:
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=22964.msg164235#msg164235

Best,
Mike
Feb. 1971 Mercedes 280SL Auto  LHD (Last of W113 Series)
Aug. 1989 Mercedes R107 300SL RHD (Last of R107 Series)
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russelljones48

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Re: master cylinder replacement
« Reply #6 on: August 29, 2019, 16:30:30 »
Thanks..   looks simple enough and worth the effort...

russelljones48

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Re: master cylinder replacement
« Reply #7 on: September 05, 2019, 14:51:02 »
OK last steps - again repeated in the first post.

7.) Buds took a couple of phone call reminders but the parts (braided SS hoses for all 4 corners) arrived a few days ago and they are installed and the brakes bled and working - short road test, to be followed by some more extensive driving in the next few days.  The hoses are relatively easy since I have a lift.  The LR would be easier with the fuel pump cover removed but not all that bad.

8.) Since I have a power bleeder I chose not to bench bleed the MC which turned out to be a mistake since the power bleeder chose to "not work".  With the help of a friend I bled the MC and then all 4 corners - no leaks so far and the pedal feels very firm.