fixed rheostat what else while dash is opened

[floatinghat]

Not a task for those with small hands I have removed and fixed my rheostat that was not working.  While I have the dash apart I am going to swap the light bulbs, gaskets, and heater levers.    Are there any other suggestions?

also, in review the process I read the tach should have a brown (ground wire) mine did not.  Where and how does this terminate, is it just a jumper from the center cluster?  the cluster also didnt have an external ground.

i have a call into the classic center, waiting on 2 days now any other better sources?

[cfm65@me.com]

Hi Floatinghat,
Did you replace or repair your rheostat?
Could you give us some tips on repairing the rheostat, please.
Regards
Chris

[doitwright]

When I did my rheostat I soaked the ceramic piece with the resistance coil spring in CLR. After reassembly I applied a small dab of silicone grease over the spring as a corrosion prevention measure.

In regards to the heater levers, if your setup still has the gray plastic lever in the top right position, consider carefully removing the grommets that secure the rubber like lever component and transfer the new rubber lever to the gray. Most replacements today are orange instead of gray.

[floatinghat]

Thanks for the replies, my Rheostat was fairly clean but the contact on the "post" had separated so i soldered it back together. Going through the process I wondered and cursed why MB couldn't have used the friction fit like Porsche.


My levers were replaced 25-30 years ago and are pretty much dusted. Saving the grey level has no chance.

[Aaron h]

Thanks for the replies, my Rheostat was fairly clean but the contact on the "post" had separated so i soldered it back together. Going through the process I wondered and cursed why MB couldn't have used the friction fit like Porsche.


My levers were replaced 25-30 years ago and are pretty much dusted. Saving the grey level has no chance.

Frank is referring to the actual colored part of the lever, not the black rubber handle that crumbles away. The hard plastic colored parts of the levers never rot or crumble away.  Though, I have seen plenty of them break due to stiff or stuck heater valves, cowl vent hinges, and/or bowden cables.  Sometimes all of the above. 

In the two pictures below you'll see the difference between the original grey/smoke colored lever and the aftermarket ones that are orange/amber in color.  One of the pictures is from a forum member.  Note the red circle denoting the brass rivets.  These are what you remove and replace when transferring the black rubber handles to the original colored handle holders. 

The U.S. version heater levers are a really sorry excuse for their intended purpose.  You may want to consider installing a set of early/Euro versions levers.  They're all hard plastic and will outlast us.  Though, if originality is a concern of yours then I understand your wanting to keep the U.S. version levers.  However, if originality is a concern, then that's all the more reasons to make sure that the top right lever is grey/smoke colored instead of that wood looking orange/amber colored aftermarket one. 

[floatinghat]

With everything going on this has taken the back seat (no pun) to other things involved with life.  However, I have the dash with everything removed with the exception of the heater control unit.  I don't want a long deal between removal, drilling and replacing the rubber on the levers.

So a couple questions, best place to purchase?  I see ebay, a vendor, classic center etc.  Are there LED subs?  I seem to recall years ago George Davis telling me he used some LED's when he came over to discuss his A/C in a cooler, but that would have been a long time ago?

I need one of the aluminium gauge retaining nuts and the gauge gaskets.  Now I don't have the ground wire on the tach, is this a jumper from the cluster or does it come from the wiring loom?