Author Topic: split linkage test  (Read 1516 times)

jim 56

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split linkage test
« on: April 21, 2020, 12:38:25 »
Finally put everything back together on my car.New points plugs condensor.Now I want to get the air fuel mix right.I unhooked all the linkages and started the car.It started and idles although high.the throttle plate is closed with a slight sticking like linkage tour says.IP pump is on stop.When I open the throttle (depress gas pedal)idle increases.Now I'm not sure but am I right in thinking that I should lean out the center screw on the injection pump?or should I use the other screw on the pump the one behind the allen screw?I have the big slotted air screw about half way in its range.

ja17

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Re: split linkage test
« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2020, 14:43:04 »
Engine linkages must be correctly adjusted. Make sure that the engine is a full operating temperature.(175-185 degrees F ).  Ignition timing will also effect the idle a lot so make sure it is correct and make sure the vacuum and centrifical mechanisms in the distributor are working correctly. When you open the air it is OK for the engine to increase 200-300 rpms. Next try to do the split linkage test at mid range above 2,000 rpms and high range above 3,500 rpms. If you determine that the engine is running rich at all speed ranges then you can adjust the rack screw or remove barometric compensator shims to adjust the fuel mixture at all speed ranges. However if you find that the engine is running rich at just the lower speed range (idle to 1,700 rpms), you can use the knurled thumb screw on the back of the IP to adjust this range only.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback