Author Topic: Transmission bolts  (Read 2450 times)

Raymond

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Transmission bolts
« on: March 25, 2005, 20:22:06 »
I am trying to remove my engine and I can't get to the top two bolts connecting the transmission to the engine.  My mechanic/advisor says I need a 3-foot long 1/2" drive extension to go over the top of the transmission from the back with a 15mm swivel socket. Is there another way to attack those bolts?  My current thinking is that I'll have to pull the engine and transmission still assembled.

Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe
Ray
'68 280SL 5-spd "California" Coupe

Tom

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Re: Transmission bolts
« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2005, 20:43:16 »
Generally, the engine and tranny are removed together.

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1971 280sl Tunis Beige Metallic

ja17

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Re: Transmission bolts
« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2005, 21:23:51 »
Hello Raymond,
I also prefere removing the engine and transmission together. However it can be done both ways.

One important thing to remember is to disconnect the torque converter from the flywheel before attempting to separate the engine from the transmission.

Now for the top bolts; your mechanic is mostly correct. I like to use 1/2" swivel end extensions actually about three to four feet of them linked together. The bolts themselves are not 15mm but 17mm. You will not need a flex socket with swivel extensions. Also remove the transmission tunnel cover plate (passenger side) to give good access to the starter bolts (10mm allen) from inside the car!

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback