Author Topic: Lower control arm Bolt removal  (Read 1808 times)

230slhouston

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Lower control arm Bolt removal
« on: May 10, 2020, 21:03:28 »
Hi,
I am stripping the suspension and having trouble with the lower out control arm bolt. It turns  1/4 of a an turn in the knuckle and won't go further. Turning a little means it is not seized. I am using an impact wrench. I cut off the other end  with a grinder between the knuckle and wishbone. Still no luck. Am I missing something?
The other bolt was removed easily with the impact wrench.

Benz Dr.

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Re: Lower control arm Bolt removal
« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2020, 23:06:24 »
I use heat and I don't bother trying to save anything that's going to be replaced. Undo the bottom nut on the king pin a bit but leave it on and then wack the bottom pivot with a big hammer until it breaks free. Leave the shock on the lower control arm to act as a safety stop. Remember, that coil spring has a lot of bound up energy that can do some serious damage if it lets go all at one time.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

230slhouston

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Re: Lower control arm Bolt removal
« Reply #2 on: May 11, 2020, 14:14:04 »
Thanks Benz Dr.
I am leaning towards cutting this out. the good news is the suspension is of the car. All stripped up just to remove these components. i did remove the coil springs - all safe.
I need to figure out how to get the king pin nut off and break this free.

Benz Dr.

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Re: Lower control arm Bolt removal
« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2020, 15:15:25 »
There would be a number of ways but don't hit on the end of the king pin which would only peen the shaft. You could use a press to push it out of the pivot.   
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

Pawel66

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Re: Lower control arm Bolt removal
« Reply #4 on: May 11, 2020, 21:00:52 »
I know this is completely ridiculous, but - can the grease nipple be in the way if it is screwed in too far?
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

230slhouston

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Re: Lower control arm Bolt removal
« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2020, 21:30:25 »
Hi Pawl,
I also removed the grease nipple.

Pawel66

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Re: Lower control arm Bolt removal
« Reply #6 on: May 12, 2020, 11:37:12 »
Happy I was not completely off-track on this... one can sometimes miss these simple things...
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

PeterPortugal

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Re: Lower control arm Bolt removal
« Reply #7 on: May 15, 2020, 11:50:14 »
Guys,

I believe my question below has relevance to this post as the OP will be trying it out soon.

I am at the stage where my axles are all set up (after king pin replacement) and I need to install them back in the car. I noted when doing a trial fit without the spring being involved that it is quite fiddly to get the rubber seals in place on each side of the lower control arm / kingpin fixing bolt as they have to be compressed.

Does anybody have any tips on this? I am not looking forward to trying it with the spring in place compressed with a trolley jack !

Regards

Peter

1963 220se Cabrio
1968 280se Coupe

PeterPortugal

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Re: Lower control arm Bolt removal
« Reply #8 on: May 18, 2020, 12:12:12 »
Just giving this question a push.

Is it easier to fix the stub axle in place at the lower wishbone and leave the top bolt out i.e. compress the spring, secure the lower wishbone on a block for safety and then connect the upper wishbone to the stub axle?

Any help appreciated as I don't want to kill myself.
1963 220se Cabrio
1968 280se Coupe

mbzse

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Re: Lower control arm Bolt removal
« Reply #9 on: May 18, 2020, 12:58:53 »
Quote from: PeterPortugal
.../...Any help appreciated as I don't want to kill myself
Wise to be careful, since the power in the main coil springs is substantial!
Therefore, when you have the A-arms attached on the inside, and you remove the outer parts with the steering spindle and knuckle up/down,
keep the shock absorber attached as a safety.

When it comes to fitting the rubber seals each side of the upper and lower knuckle, I put a tube (pipe) with the right outer dia in the knuckle threaded part, and the rubber ring seals (and up, the washers) go on each side.
Then, I thread the bolt through, and it pushes the tube (pipe) out. Voilá
/Hans S

PeterPortugal

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Re: Lower control arm Bolt removal
« Reply #10 on: May 18, 2020, 18:26:33 »
Hi Hans,

That is good advice as I have to get my new shocks installed too.

So basically compress the spring just enough to fit the shock absorber and once this is complete then compress it further to fit the bolt through the axle?
1963 220se Cabrio
1968 280se Coupe