Hi Hans,
Compression tests are done with a warm engine, wide open throttle, all spark plugs removed, coil wire grounded, and then crank the engine until the compression test gauge stops rising. At that point, you have reached the maximum amount of air pressure that the engine will hold.
Converting your bar numbers to psi, you only have 117psi in Cylinder No.3. You also have significant oil consumption (on your long trip). I doubt very much that you lost 3L (3qts) of engine oil out the dipstick. That much oil would have made a tremendous mess in the engine compartment, likely made it onto the exhaust pipes, smoked like crazy, and you certainly would have smelled it inside the car, and had it sprayed all over the underside of the car, and on the back of the trunk and tail light area.
My suggestion would be to purchase your own compression test gauge. They are about $30US here in US. Repeat the test and write down your numbers. Any cylinder with less than 125psi/8.5bar should be retested, with what's called; a wet test. During the wet test, you will squirt/pour a few ounces of engine oil into the cylinder. Then immediately repeat your compression test......again, wide open throttle, all spark plugs removed, and crank until the gauge stops moving. The purpose of the wet test is to prove if you have valves that are leaking, or compression rings (on the piston) that are leaking. The engine oil will temporarily seal the piston's compression rings, but it cannot seal the valve seats. So if the wet test gives you a higher reading than the dry test, you know the compression rings, and/or cylinder is the issue (worn out rings, broken rings, rings that are stuck to the piston via carbon deposits or damage, or a deep scratch in the cylinder wall, or a cylinder that is simply worn out at the top of the bore). If your test result remains unchanged, you know you have a valve seat/valve sealing issue (valves not closing completely due to too tight of a valve adjustment, burned exhaust valve, valve seat damage/wear, bent valve stem). Doing the wet and dry compression test, IMO, is all the testing you need to do. Sure, you can do a leak down, but why? If you have a valve issue, the head's coming off and getting rebuilt (unless you find a tight valve adjustment) and if you find a ring issue, the engine is coming apart.
Some additional info: Oil consumption happens 2 ways; 1) The valve stem seals fail, and the engine begins sucking oil down the valve stems, yes, both stems (actual suction on the intake valves, and a venturi type effect on the exhaust valve stems as the high speed exhaust gasses pass over the end of the valve guide). An engine can consume a lot of oil down the valve guides. Common indicators of valve seal failure are blue smoking at initial start up, especially after sitting over night, or for a few days or weeks, smoking on acceleration from a long traffic light, and smoking upon initial acceleration after coming down a long hill. 2) The oil control rings. Remember, compression rings DO NOT control oil getting up up the cylinder and into the combustion chamber. So you can have a good compression reading (a compression test ONLY tests the compression rings and valve seats and head gasket fire ring) and still have an engine that consumes oil. So you can have oil rings that are broken, worn out, have lost their spring tension (so they don't push out against the cylinder wall firmly enough to scrape oil), or are stuck in the piston due to a build up of carbon and goopy oil. Symptoms of failed oil control rings are an engine that smokes badly under acceleration, especially hard acceleration.
So if I was working on your car, I would redo the dry test, then do a wet test, and depending on what I found, make a decision as to what step I'd take next. Good luck!
