Author Topic: Vertical linkage rod adjustment  (Read 2256 times)

col320ce

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Vertical linkage rod adjustment
« on: July 06, 2020, 10:20:43 »
I'm still a bit unsure of the vertical linkage rod adjustment from the engine block.  This is for the automatic 250SE but I'm posting here as I assume it is universal to the Pagoda too.
Mine is not in a neutral position but I don't want to touch it until I know what to do with it.
Also the arm to the top of the FIP rod has been broken off in the past and I don't know if it was welded on in the correct place...is there any way to check this as it will influence the length of the FIP rod?
Thanks...
Col

1964 230SL
1965 250SE coupe
1993 320CE Sportline

mrfatboy

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Re: Vertical linkage rod adjustment
« Reply #1 on: July 06, 2020, 11:29:26 »
Pictures would help.  :)
1969 280sl (Aug 1968 build)
Signal Red
4 Speed

col320ce

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Re: Vertical linkage rod adjustment
« Reply #2 on: July 10, 2020, 03:22:43 »
Sorry for the slow reply!
This is the welded arm on the FIP side..
Col

1964 230SL
1965 250SE coupe
1993 320CE Sportline

col320ce

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Re: Vertical linkage rod adjustment
« Reply #3 on: July 10, 2020, 03:27:20 »
And this is the vertical rod I am unsure how to adjust...
It attaches to the linkages of the constant speed solenoid.
Col

1964 230SL
1965 250SE coupe
1993 320CE Sportline

mrfatboy

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Re: Vertical linkage rod adjustment
« Reply #4 on: July 10, 2020, 03:40:27 »
I think if you follow the “linkage tour” in the tech manual you will get close if not correct. People that know more about the 250se can comment.

While the throttle linkage crossover bar lever has an ugly weld it does look it was welded at correct angle as far as I can tell from the pic.

Once you set the basic linkage the others fall in place.

1969 280sl (Aug 1968 build)
Signal Red
4 Speed

ja17

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Re: Vertical linkage rod adjustment
« Reply #5 on: July 10, 2020, 05:34:55 »
Good advice from Mrfatboy.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

WRe

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Re: Vertical linkage rod adjustment
« Reply #6 on: July 10, 2020, 06:29:55 »

col320ce

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Re: Vertical linkage rod adjustment
« Reply #7 on: July 12, 2020, 00:26:08 »
I think I know what to do :

"The linkage rod going to the block pivot should be set so the venturi is all the way open when the accelerator is at the floor while still allowing the venturi to completely closed when the pedal is up."

I thought I read that this rod also adjusts gear changing timing? Perhaps I misread that.

The car had no problem with warm starting until I "fixed it" (csv was disconnected, linkages way out, wsd not closing) and now it is nearly impossible to start when warm. I renewed the wiring harness so I'm not sure if I put this back in incorrectly.  Easy to start from cold.
Col

1964 230SL
1965 250SE coupe
1993 320CE Sportline

ja17

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Re: Vertical linkage rod adjustment
« Reply #8 on: July 12, 2020, 15:08:22 »
Rod adjustment will not effect gear changing on a W113 pagoda. Only the later 280SE sedans with the newer "four bolt" pan, automatic transmissions will be affected by adjusting this rod.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

col320ce

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Re: Vertical linkage rod adjustment
« Reply #9 on: July 17, 2020, 12:23:55 »
thanks!
adjusted now...it was well out so that  the venturi was open too early and the pedal couldn't get to the kickdown switch.
Col

1964 230SL
1965 250SE coupe
1993 320CE Sportline

wwheeler

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Re: Vertical linkage rod adjustment
« Reply #10 on: July 17, 2020, 18:43:36 »
"The linkage rod going to the block pivot should be set so the venturi is all the way open when the accelerator is at the floor while still allowing the venturi to completely closed when the pedal is up."

The car had no problem with warm starting until I "fixed it" (csv was disconnected, linkages way out, wsd not closing) and now it is nearly impossible to start when warm. I renewed the wiring harness so I'm not sure if I put this back in incorrectly.  Easy to start from cold.
My understanding is that there should be about a 1mm gap between the Venturi lever and its stop when the IP fuel lever is on its stop (accel pedal is all the way down). Reason being is you want to be 100% sure the IP fuel lever is totally open when the pedal is floored. The venturi lever adjustment is the place that takes up the tolerance. Having the venturi open 99% versus 100% has little effect on air flow. But there is a difference between the fuel lever being 99% versus 100%. Hopefully that makes sense.

As far as the hot starting, try disconnecting the starting solenoid when starting hot. If it helps dramatically, you are getting too much fuel when it is hot. That is what happened on mine. If there is no change, move on to something else.
Wallace
Texas
'68 280SE W111 coupe
'60 220SE W128 coupe
'70 Plymouth Roadrunner 440+6