More on the flasher

[russelljones48]

My turn signals have gradually gotten slower so I thought I'd see what can be done.  For those of you who want to spend the $$$ here's the response from the MB Classic center:


171-classicparts@mbusa.com
6:13 PM (16 minutes ago)
to me

000 544 58 32 26 $258.00 YOUR PRICE $206.40 (20% DISCOUNT) WE HAVE 1 IN STOCK

Kind regards, / Mit freundlichen Grüßen,

Jon

It's a bit rich for my blood so I think I'll use a modified modern flasher.  I've ordered the modern one from AutoHauz AZ and post the results.  It looks easy enough to modify the connector and I've already cleaned all the connections, replaced bulbs etc.

 

 

[mrfatboy]

My flasher went out over 15 years ago. Like you the replacement was $$$$.

Here is the fuzzy memory part. Hopefully other members can confirm or at least piece together my memory 🤣

I was advised to get a MB flasher from a 108??? Same look and dimensions but the wiring studs on the flasher were reversed. All I had to do is pop the connector and swap them. Easy. I think it was $17???

[Chris Long]

If you check my post on LED lights there is an option for a simple conversion to a modern flasher that supports LEDs with no permanent changes. Rgds

[russelljones48]

The "modern flasher" from Autohauz AZ arrived and the conversion was easier than I expected so my directional signals are now blinking as they should.  I have not quite figured out how I will remount the unit since the original has a tab for a small nut/bolt but everything is working.

It might be worth clarifying the note in the technical manual since I found the change required easier than I originally thought.

I first pulled the whole bracket loose from the under side of the dash by removing the 2 sheet metal screws from the under side of the dash.  The picture was evidently taken from the floor looking up at the under side of the dash.  Once removed it makes access to the flasher canister much easier.  I unscrewed it from the bracket and then separated the bakelite connector from the canister.

Next take the bakelite connector/plug apart by removing the 3 small screws - that exposes the connectors and wires.  After first reading the instructions I thought I would have to cut, strip, and solder the wires to another female connector.  NOT SO - just pull the connector from its original hole (it slides out) and move it to the empty hole as pictured. 

What's not said is that you may have to snip off (about 1/2 way) the locator pin on the new flasher.  Once I did that the new flashr seated fully on the connector and mine is working perfectly!!

I'll post how I mounted everything back under the dash when I figure it out - the new plastic flasher case has no tab for bolting to the bracket so I have to improvise something so it mounts to the bracket.

 

[lpeterssen]

Here attached a self explanatory Picture of how to use a modern electronic flasher on our loved Mercedes.  I found it on a forum long time ago. Do not remember where, and all credits to original author.

[66andBlue]

Hello Leonardo,
thanks for giving me credit. 
Indeed this picture is in our technical manual since July 2016 and the information on installing a LED flasher for almost as long.
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/FlasherRelay
Happy motoring!

[114015]

000 544 58 32 26 $258.00 YOUR PRICE $206.40 (20% DISCOUNT) WE HAVE 1 IN STOCK

Hello Russel,

A000 544 5832 (26)?
That's a strange (or "fuzzy" as mrfatboy would say) number, that I have never heard of.

The correct parts number for the three pole relay (without hazard light function) which is still available today is

A000 821 1063 "Blinkgeber"
and that part is still available, €uro 90.16 or something similar in $$.

https://originalteile.mercedes-benz.de/geber-39522


And ah yes, it's today a cube-like plastic cover relais, no longer an aluminum covered can design.

And ah yes, as visible on Alfred's pics, one of the three contacts needs to be re-plugged.

Best,
Achim

[russelljones48]

here's the modern flasher with a fabricated bracket that mimics the original bracket on the cannister.  I cut it from .080 aluminum, bent it at the appropriate point and super glued it to the new relay.
it bolts in the same spot as the old canister.