New Member - A neophyte. A lamb lost in the woods.

[1000nutsnbolts]

I bought this 1970 SL on bringatrailer.com. The car was delivered on Sunday, the 11th.

To put it kindly, the seller didn't know his car very well. A quiet man. For the auction he put his best foot forward. Even if that foot was hollow. More to this story.

The car started and idles smoothly. But on our maiden drive through the neighborhood, I knew I was in trouble. Runs rough and shifts hard. A mile out, I was worried I wasn't going to make it home.

Runs rough - I am hoping the car needs to be "woken up".  After "finding" some paperwork in a manila envelope, I have reason to believe the car hasn't been driven much in the last 3 years. Draining the gas and adding fresh is Job 1. Any suggests? Octane? Additives to clear out lines through injectors?

Job 2 - transmission. Car warm, level, neutral, running - the stick is bone dry. This is despite the "found" paperwork indicating a trans service and a crank seal 2+ years ago, but with only 11 more miles on odometer. Eleven miles in 27 months.

I will get it up on jack stands and put in a quart to start to see where it comes out. Any suggestions?? Any particular type/kind of ATF?

First spin in the car on Sunday, on Monday I bought a AAA Premium membership with 100 mile tows. 

Very happy with the tech manual offered by the Pagoda group. Sorry to say that I think I am going to be around asking for, and appreciating, your sound advice.

Most of all ... I would genuinely appreciate any "DO NOT DO THIS" advice!!

[Vander]

My recommendations to get you started..

1. Underneath the car in the center of the tank you will see a bolt that says "Benzin" that takes a large allen socket to remove, this is where you drain the tank. Do NOT re-install this part back in the car. It has a built in screen, buy a new one- part #1114700686.

2. Check the condition of the inside of the tank while there is no gas in it. You can do this through the trunk, remove the fuel sending unit in the center and look inside with a flashlight. Replace cork gasket on top for sending unit.

3. Before putting gasoline back in the tank, follow the rubber line from the tank to the fuel pump inside left rear wheel. Remove line off the pump, buzz fitting off with an impact you will see another screen built inside that fitting. Clean it and reinstall. Replace both rubber fuel hoses coming off of the tank while you're there.

*Note- I took a look at your auction they have something weird going on with the pump/tank. Photo #147. That T fitting and wire tie are not original, investigate.

4. Replace the fuel filter in the engine compartment. Driver's side front of motor. Part # 000 477 64 15

5. Replace spark plugs with NGK BP5ES or BP6ES. Make sure spark plugs do NOT have an 'R' in them. Check spark plug wires and ends for OHM resistance. They should not have more than 6k ohms between them.

6. After all of that is completed. Familiarize yourself with the "linkage adjustment tour" in the technical manual. This is a big part of "waking it up"

Also I always use 93 octane premium in all of my Mercedes.

[JamesL]

DON’T BUY A CAR UNSEEN! 

A new adventure begins...
Welcome
First question. Is it solid (look under the carpets front and back and reach up on the engine side of the front wheel arches, as well as look it over). The tech manual has a buyers guide (bit late) but it’ll tell you the common rusty bits. If it’s solid, you’re ahead in this particular game!

Yes, the tech manual will help. There are similar threads on here but the advice generally boils down to - as a starting point for a car that’s been sitting - drain ALL the fluids. Clean/flush tanks and pipes. Change filters (multiple fuel filters and oil etc). Refill fluids.

If it’s running rough after changing the “consumables”, you’ll be onto linkage tours, warm running device, cold start valve and so forth. So start with fluids/service items.

FYI, when my auto was low on ATF it would run like I was riding the clutch (of a manual). Lots of revs but no upshift/drive. Merc ATF is in mine and I filled it down the dipstick hole using a funnel. I was advised: With a cold gearbox, start it, run the gears selector through all gears, and you should have 5mm or so at the bottom of the dipstick.

[Jonny B]

DO be careful when draining the fuel, and using a light! Gasoline is dangerous, so be sure you have great ventilation.

BTW - Welcome to the group!

[thelews]

DON’T BUY A CAR UNSEEN! 

The first and most important "don't."

I'd first find someone qualified to look at the car, a member, a knowledgeable mechanic to determine if this is the car to invest money and time into or to cut your losses and find a better example.

P.S.  I took a look at the pictures on BAT, this car needs a serious looking at by someone who knows what they're doing.

[kampala]

Dear 1000nuts...

you came to this site for some help - so hopefully folks will provide some guidance.

The transmission - the driving video on BAT does not show the shift knob, so not easy to tell if seller was shifting manually or left it in 4.    You can add ATF type 2.   Only add a pint or less at a time and add through the trans dip stick.   Once you get some fluid to show at right level, then you can see if waking her up helps.

On the BAT video the car seems to start right away - a good sign.   

Agree with your notes on fuel and such.   

Don't get to caught up until you check the basics.   

Need to know if ignition is the factory transistorized or has it been by-passed and running something else - very common. 

If you want an expert opinion, and feel like you can drive 40 miles north - you can call and visit Gernold at SLTECH.   There are a very few extreme experts on these cars and you are 40 miles from one of them.   

I would get it running a bit better, test it around your home to feel you can drive it, and get it to Gernold with AAA card in hand.  Ask Gernold, to check it out and give you his opinion on what it will take to make it what you want - just drive great and enjoy or what level you want it.  He should be able to give you a full assessment and can advise what it might take to just get it to run good.

https://www.sltechw113.com

The 11 miles you mention might only be cause the odometer stopped.  That happens and can restart by fixing the gauge or cable etc.   


The heater levers are a pain, but doable - and looks like you got a new set.

Sure, we can all find issues, but at moment, you need solutions - hopefully we can help bit by bit.  As you provide more details folks will help.

Best,

[1000nutsnbolts]

THANK YOU Vander - great start.

[1000nutsnbolts]

Hello Vander. Thanks for your very helpful info. The fuel filter is on order from RMeuropean.

I am bumping and grinding my way around this group website. I am not a FB fan and don't belong to any other clubs, so please excuse my lack of manners as I learn to navigate.

If needed, may I contact you directly via e-mail? I will try to not be a bother.

I am Tom McManus on seacoast New Hampshire
ibex-engr@comcast.net
Thanks Again

[1000nutsnbolts]

Thanks JamesL.

I appreciate the welcome.

DON'T BUY A CAR UNSEEN!!!

I hear you. I did arrange to make an indisputable money transfer at a bank after a 1 hour inspection which included a car start, but not a drive. Car starts and idles (600/700 rpm) great. Clean appearance exhaust.

Yes it is solid except for one near rust thru on passenger floor pan. Looks like it was hit by road hazard. I would think of this as a localized patch.
Little rust in trunk. Just surface. Sand/prime/paint.

Liked  "have 5mm or so at the bottom of the dipstick."

Thanks Again JamesL

CHEERS!

[1000nutsnbolts]

Thanks Jonny B!  You're correct ... gas is dangerous!!

As I have learned along with jacking a car on unpaved ground and supporting with fire logs.
Leaving the key in the lathe chuck
Moving around operating machinery in a hurry.
Sticking your finger in areas of moving parts.
Wearing a tie around operating machinery.
Marrying a pretty little Italian girl.

BE SAFE!!!

[1000nutsnbolts]

Thanks thelews.

I created a spreadsheet and I adding contacts daily. Local MB independent (25 years) with credentials and a retired casual friend from MBUSA who worked as Service Manager for two local dealerships.

What ATF do you use?

[thelews]

Thanks thelews.

What ATF do you use?

I just use any ATF, but I have a manual transmission.

[JamesL]

Sounds like you have a great starting point and some knowledge of what’s likely ahead. Enjoy the ride

[1000nutsnbolts]

kampala - WOW - Big Help!!!  THANKS

Yes - Gernold. Easy drive up RT 1. What a fantastic resource and I will be sure to mention you.

If needed, may I contact you again??

Thanks,
Tom