Soft-Top advice

[J. Huber]

Hello. About 10 years ago, I replaced my soft-top. The new one was a good one -- fits well and has held up well. The problem is: early on, it started getting pinched on the window corners, which chewed it up along the edges. Many of you know what I am talking about. A second problem along the way was that water got into the topcase one year while top was down. A small discolored and hardened area on window appeared and cracked. I have a decal over it. (new top case seal solved the water problem but the patch still bugs me.) So I am thinking about replacing the top again...

My dilemma is -- how do I know the chewing is not going to happen again? It seems like it might since I never really adjusted anything... I'd probably flip if it does. I am more careful now about folding, but once those hinges close, its beyond my help...

I am nowhere near Gernold so having him inspect my soft-top is out of the question. Is there any way I can do some kind of measuring and adjusting to have it not happen? Anyone have an idea? Thanks.

James
63 230SL

[mdsalemi]

Jim,

At the last Tech Session in 2003, Cees Klumper taught me a trick: when the top is folded to be stored in its spot, you need to, by hand, fold the corners under themselves.  I did this and when the top comes back up, the corners don't get all bent and mangled.

Pete Lesler also tells me that you can get a new clear rear plastic window.  I assume if this is available, you could find an upholstery shop to stitch it in place and replace that rear window of yours.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored

[Douglas]

You can definitely get a window stitched in to your existing top.

I think James is talking about the corner of the top just behind the side windows. That's the part that gets chewed up, correct? The trick that Michael was talking about is for the rear corners. I don't believe there's much you can do about the front part of the sides getting chewed up.

One more thing -- folding the top puts a crease in the rear window and little "dent"-like impressions. I don't think there's a solution for that one either.

Douglas Kim
New York, NY
280 SL #016220

[J. Huber]

Yes Douglas, that is exactly what I meant. I can live with a little "curl." It's the chewing and shredding that I fear.

As for the window idea, I once contacted Gernold about replacing. He submitted that it is not really cost effective to replace just the window since the top would have to be removed and then re-installed anyway. Seemed to make sense at the time...

James
63 230SL

[Naj ✝︎]

My partner had a new window stitched in by a pro on his 129.The soft top had to be removed.
The new window is bigger than original and the job cost more than a new top from the US.
naj

65 230SL
68 280SL

[erickmarciano]

I istalled a new roof <german best quality > and a week later the small tear next to the window started and used raggtop  to protect it , got a litle on the back window and it melted litle round spots on my new window

1971 280sl
1962 VW
1954 Allstate vespa
1958 gs150 vespa
1962 gs160 vespa

[isofast]

Hello group I have been busy remodeling my home. I still sneak a peak daily at the site but never have time to post... saw this and had to... Michael can you or Cees elaborate on the "fold"? I also have the "bite marks" I also get a rub or bite on the bolt that sticks out of the cable block in the rear of the compartment you know the one that moves the pin to hold the back of the top, it seems to rub when my top is stowed. It looks like it sticks out more than it needs to. I also noticed that the felt inside my compartment rolled up a little over the winter. I replaced the rear seal where the top meets the stowage lid. This seemed to reduce the wind noise quite a bit. Hope to meet more new members at our next get togather.
Ernie

First Place AACA Show Winner 350SL July 2003
I love low mile Mercedes.
First Place AACA Show winner for 2004 280SL
1969 280 4spd Papyrus White

[waltklatt]

James,
Seems you are suffering like many others are including me.
I have seen an oldish softtop that still looked like new.  The owner told me that he used two firm plastic shoehorn (like a cutting mat of slippery plastic) like things that he slips over the sides of the case.  So that when he raises or lowers the top the edges of the top slide over these shoehorns and reduce the abrasion that occurs.
I can find out more about this and take a picture on my 230SL as an example.  
As for the one in the rear near the catch hook, that one is an adjustment issue(check the straightness of the bow-could be pulled out towards the rear).
As for the rear window bends, try to make sure that the plastic is folded straight and proper when stowing-eliminate the wrinkles.  Also you can try putting a soft terry towel there to cover the plastic when stowing(have not heard much about this trick). When I got my new top fabric it had a thin sheet of cottony like fabric in between the plastic and fabric.
And of course the master-Gernold might be more knowledgeable on this.

Hope this helps,
Walter
1963, 1965, 1967 230SL's

[Ed Cave]

Can someone who knows and has a good rapport with Gernold ask the "Master of the 113 Soft Top" to share with this group his tips for minimizing the abrasion and premature wear / disfigurement?

I think it would be excellent, valuable information that those of us with soft tops (that would be EVERYBODY) could put to good use.

Thanks.

Ed Cave
Atlanta, GA

1964 356C
1971 280SL
2002 SC430
2004 A4 3.0

[Douglas]

By all means, let's talk to Gernold. My understanding though, is that the only significant way to diminish wear and tear on the soft top is not to use it very often. Either leave it up or leave it down (preferably the former). The wear and tear mostly happens from all the rubbing caused by the frame going up and down.

Douglas Kim
New York, NY
280 SL #016220

[Cees Klumper]

Isofast - in order to prevent the rear corner edges from curling up when the top is in the 'up' position, you need to fold these corners down when the top is lowered into the compartment. Look at what happens when you lower the top without taking any precautions and you will see what I mean: the corners will be pushed upwards and this is how they stay in the well when the top is down. If you fold them under themselves (as Michael aptly put it) when lowering the top (you can use a piece of plastic for this from e.g. a milk carton, not too wide and not too narrow - you can also use your hands but it's a very tight fit) the edges will stay down when the top is up nicely.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[Ed Cave]

As one who is currently installing a brand new soft top I am bringing this topic back to the top in hopes that someone who knows Gernold pretty well might inquire as suggested below. I'm sure his tips on this would benefit everyone.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can make this happen.

quote:Originally posted by Ed Cave

Can someone who knows and has a good rapport with Gernold ask the "Master of the 113 Soft Top" to share with this group his tips for minimizing the abrasion and premature wear / disfigurement?

I think it would be excellent, valuable information that those of us with soft tops (that would be EVERYBODY) could put to good use.

Thanks.

Ed Cave
Atlanta, GA

1964 356C
1971 280SL
2002 SC430
2004 A4 3.0

Ed Cave
Atlanta, GA

1964 356C
1971 280SL
2002 SC430
2004 A4 3.0

[JamesL]

My top too is getting rubbed and reading this has prompted an idea

A decent way of reproducing the "shoe-horn" would be to cut up a PET (eg 500ml soda) bottle and use that as a means of smoothing the path of the hood into the well

Summer is coming, I'll let you know how I get on

[Richard Madison]

Here's a link to a message (with pictures) about Soft Top Shoehorns. I used "followers" from a looseleaf binder but a flattened out cut plastic bottle out should work also.

http://sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=2260

Richard M

[ted280sl]

This topic has popped up frm time to time but, I have never seen a mention of the most obvious cause of wear and tear on our edges. As the top is lowered  the edges rub against the soft top case. On my car the case edge was rough and it was causing damage to my soft top. I used my handy dremel tool to smooth the soft top case edge and put some trustyduct tape over the metal. The duct tape is back and concealede by the soft top cover. This simple solution reduces abrasion as the top is raised and lowered.
regards,
Ted
PS: I removed my hard top yesterday. A sure sign that Spring has arrved in New York.

[J. Huber]

Good insight Ted. I too have the duct tape on that area. It was very obvious when I replaced my topcase seal that the frame/top hit that area... The rubber immediately started getting chewed up.

James
63 230SL

[J. Huber]

This shows what we are talking about....



Download Attachment: 000_0098.JPG
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James
63 230SL

[Mike Hughes]

I use a pair of extra heavy duty zip-lock bags, dimensions about 9 x 9 inches, to keep the top fabric from being damaged and from tearing at the rubber boot seal while being folded.  Once the top is down they just fold over the frame and keep the material from chafing when the top is stowed under the boot.  They take up no space at all in the compartment or glove box when the top is up.

- Mike Hughes  -ô¿ô-
  1966 230SL Auto P/S
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