230Sl Front Brake Calipers

[dirtrack49]

Hi All,

It has been a long while since posting on this forum. I have been working on a 1930 Model A Town Sedan for the last year.

The other day, I was doing some service on my 66 230SL and found that the right brake pads had worn down to approximately 3mm while the lefts were still at 6mm. My first thought would be that the caliper pistons must be sticking. I had replaced the brake flexible lines and bled the system a while back. At that time the wear on the pads were about even.

My questions are, should I try to rebuild the Girling calipers if I find them capable of rebuild? Or, should I just purchase ATE calipers and be done with it?
From what I have searched on this forum, it appears that most change over to ATE. However, does that process entail any modifications, or do you just bolt the ATE calipers on in place of the Girlings?

Thanks for any and all help and comments related to this matter.

Tom L.

[dirkbalter]

I also bought ATE's and just bolted them on. Very reasonable depending on where you buy them.

[inci]

rockauto is the best place to get reman calipers

[dirtrack49]

Dirk and John, thanks for the reply's.

So as I understand it, I can simply get the ATE's and bolt them on in place of my Girlings? I would think that this would be the way to go since it looks like the Girling hardware is hard to find and rather expensive.

I did look on Rock Auto, but it appears they are out of stock. With remanufactured units should I just pay the core charge since I don't have a like core to return? Or has anyone had luck with sending back their Girling calipers?

One other non related item. I noticed that on my log in it shows that this is my first post. Has something changed in the last year or so? I have posted many times on this forum and it still recognized my user name and pass word. Just thought that was rather odd that it shows this being my first post.

Tom L.

[dirkbalter]

Tom,

I initially wanted to rebuild my Girling calipers. On top of just replacing the seals, the pistons are pitted and needed replacement or refinishing as well. The only rebuild kits I found were for the rubber components only and were more expensive than a complete rebuild ATE caliper from rock auto. I kept the Girlings in case I ever want to play with them down the road.
The bolted into place without the necessity for any modifications.     

Hope that helps

[dirtrack49]

Thanks Dirk,
That is what I needed to know.

A couple of things I have noticed are some of the ATE calipers say Cardone or Centric. I assume they are the companies that remanufacture these units? Also they state either "unloaded" or "semi loaded". Anyone know what that means?

Another problem I have run into is that no one seems to have any remanufactured calipers in stock. I might need to bite the bullet and buy new.

Thanks,
Tom L.

[inci]

tom,
cordone and centric are the reman companies.
"semi loaded” comes with pins and springs
you can go to the search option on rockauto and click ‘notify me when available’; they will send you an email when it becomes available.
i also recommend changing your brake hoses since you’re changing your calipers.

[dirkbalter]

Tom said it already.
Be careful with the solid tubing when unscrewing (see pic before resto). I believe they are no longer available or hard to get.

[dirtrack49]

Thanks again Dirk and John for your input.

A few more questions. If I need to replace the rotors, are they also compatible with the ATE calipers and my original hubs? I most likely will need to replace the wheel bearings or at least repack them while doing this job. Anything I should be looking out for?

Thanks again,

Tom L.

[dirkbalter]

Tom,
The rotor will work fine with the ATE’s. You will need to use the 230 rotors which are slightly smaller than the 250/280 rotors on the OD. The bearings, I believe, are all the same. Don’t tighten them too much. There is a lot written here about adjusting and measuring the ideal play....