Author Topic: Fuel Pump Problems  (Read 2808 times)

garwoo

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Fuel Pump Problems
« on: October 27, 2020, 17:52:18 »
Hi everyone
My fuel pump has been partially restored, the bottom half. I purchased a repair kit with a new Impeller. It sounds lots better than it did before but although the the car starts immediately, it stops running Quickly within seconds.
Anyone have any idea why? The engine filter is new.

dirkbalter

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Re: Fuel Pump Problems
« Reply #1 on: October 27, 2020, 17:58:37 »
I think you should first check the amount of fuel that is pumped. 1 liter per 15 seconds coming out the return line at the tank.
« Last Edit: October 27, 2020, 18:08:27 by dirkbalter »
Dirk
66 230 SL
70 280 SEL
53 CHEVY 3100
18 C300 COUPE
05 HD FLSTNI

doitwright

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Re: Fuel Pump Problems
« Reply #2 on: October 28, 2020, 03:42:59 »
And your fuel tank is clean with a clean tank filter?
Frank Koronkiewicz
Willowbrook, Illinois

1970 280SL Originally Light Ivory - Now Anthracite Gray Metallic

garwoo

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Re: Fuel Pump Problems
« Reply #3 on: October 29, 2020, 01:11:03 »
Thanks for the info.  I tried to  find the correct return line at the tank and am still not sure. There is a fuel line that enters the tank next to the main fuel line that goes from the tank to the pump. Could this be what you were referring to or is there a better location?
The fuel tank may be a problem, it may not be as pristine as you would like.

ctaylor738

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Re: Fuel Pump Problems
« Reply #4 on: October 29, 2020, 12:13:04 »
You check the flow on the left side of the engine.  Unhook the flexible part of the return line from the hard line, which should be attached to the frame.  I believe the fitting sizes are 17mm and 14 mm.  You can slip a larger piece of hose over the end of the flexible hose and run it into a container.  I use a 1.5 liter soda bottle.

Cheers,

CT
Chuck Taylor
1963 230SL #00133
1970 280SL #13027 (restored and sold)
1966 230SL #15274 (sold)
1970 280SL #14076 (sold)
Falls Church VA

dirkbalter

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Re: Fuel Pump Problems
« Reply #5 on: October 29, 2020, 15:04:27 »
I just did the test as well for different reasons. I find it easiest to lift the car in the rear a bit and take off the rear left wheel for better access. Locking at the tank, you will see two lines attached with hose clamps to the tank. One goes to the pump and is the supply. The other one comes from somewhere in the front of the car and is the return line. You need another short piece of plugged fuel line to stop the flow of gas out of the tank once the return line is removed. (You can just force a suitable bolt in one end of that piece to plug it).
Drop the return line in a suitable container and turn on the ignition for 15 sec and measure the amount of fuel.

Since you mentioned that you rebuild the fuel pump, make sure the two leads to the pump are connected correctly or the pump will run backwards. (You can just switch them to test)
Also, the fuel pump impeller has tapered fins and has to be installed in the correct direction.

Hope that helps   
Dirk
66 230 SL
70 280 SEL
53 CHEVY 3100
18 C300 COUPE
05 HD FLSTNI

garwoo

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Re: Fuel Pump Problems
« Reply #6 on: November 24, 2020, 19:14:16 »
Thank-you all for your suggestions. my apologies For not replying sooner, my health went down hill for a while this month. ( not the virus )
Since I live on an island, local help is limited and leaving the Island is not an option. It appears I have further problems.  One of the brushes has a broken wire since I have to solder that back on and I have a new set of brushes, it seems to make sense to replace them both. My problem is, it's not completely clear where the attachment  points are. Does anyone know if there is a schematic of the (short) pump available anywhere?
Thanks Ed

dirkbalter

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Re: Fuel Pump Problems
« Reply #7 on: November 24, 2020, 20:03:56 »
Ed,
I hope you feel better. Not sure if the picture helps. You may want to contact Baron Youngman, a member here and the resident expert on short style fuel pumps.
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=30661.msg222539#msg222539
Dirk
66 230 SL
70 280 SEL
53 CHEVY 3100
18 C300 COUPE
05 HD FLSTNI

BaronYoungman

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Re: Fuel Pump Problems
« Reply #8 on: November 26, 2020, 02:13:02 »
The connection will go from the end of the electrical plastic tab through the coiled up line around a carbon rod to the outside( closest to the edge) indented tab on the holder. The front indent is for the brush connection. Bob
Bob "Baron" Youngman
1971 280 SL silver  1 car 0 boxes
1983 500sec Wheeler Dealer AMG w AMG coupe
1965 220se coupe restomod
1988 560sec  Japan "Yakuza Car"

garwoo

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Re: Fuel Pump Problems
« Reply #9 on: November 28, 2020, 17:50:49 »
Thankyou Dirk and Bob for the advise, it makes much more sense to me now.
Will keep you posted. Ed

Pinder

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Re: Fuel Pump Problems
« Reply #10 on: November 30, 2020, 01:17:20 »
Just curious what is the purpose of the coiled copper around carbon rod?
1970 280 SL Light Ivory DB 670. 4 Speed manual shift no AC Limited Slip Diff.
1997 Corvette C5 Silver. automatic
2015 BMW 320i xdrive
2021 Mercedes GLS450 Silver

BaronYoungman

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Re: Fuel Pump Problems
« Reply #11 on: December 01, 2020, 15:57:59 »
That is a good question. Some of it has to do with being able to stretch the wire to solder without detaching it from either end and be able to manipulate the wire for it cannot touch metal between the plastic tab and the brush holder. Bob
« Last Edit: December 02, 2020, 03:08:35 by BaronYoungman »
Bob "Baron" Youngman
1971 280 SL silver  1 car 0 boxes
1983 500sec Wheeler Dealer AMG w AMG coupe
1965 220se coupe restomod
1988 560sec  Japan "Yakuza Car"

Pinder

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Re: Fuel Pump Problems
« Reply #12 on: December 02, 2020, 17:15:36 »
ok that makes sense. I was thinking about that fact that if it does it would short to ground.
1970 280 SL Light Ivory DB 670. 4 Speed manual shift no AC Limited Slip Diff.
1997 Corvette C5 Silver. automatic
2015 BMW 320i xdrive
2021 Mercedes GLS450 Silver

jim 56

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Re: Fuel Pump Problems
« Reply #13 on: December 03, 2020, 13:09:58 »
Hi awhile ago I talked to a guy from Europarts who rebuilds their fuel pumps.He said the coiled copper around the carbon rod is a RF choke to supress static from the radio.Nobody makes them any more so they use a solid state one.He gave me the website where they buy them from but I never purchased any as a fellow member had a couple he sent me.Now I don't know if he was right but it does make sense.Maybe someone smarter than me would know for sure.BTW I ran my pump on a test setup for a few hours just using 24 gauge wire and it ran fine.