Author Topic: Radiator  (Read 22960 times)

Vince Canepa

  • Guest
Re: Radiator
« Reply #25 on: February 15, 2005, 06:24:14 »
I use Glasurit two part Flat Black, which is actually semi-gloss, for the tanks.  I use Sperex high temp exhaust paint on the fins.  This gives the tanks a look and gloss very close to the factory finish and a very thin protective coating on the fins that does not restrict heat transfer.  The whole effect is very close to factory.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

KevinC

  • Guest
Re: Radiator
« Reply #26 on: May 04, 2005, 14:14:06 »
Bob,

I am interested to fond out houw you are liking the "rarepart" high efficiency radiator after almost three months. Will be doing mine this summer a fuel pump replacement took precedence.

Thanks!
Kevin

Kevin
Boca Raton, FL
1967 230 SL Automatic
670 Light Ivory
113 Bronze/Brown MB Tex

bpossel

  • Guest
Re: Radiator
« Reply #27 on: May 04, 2005, 18:38:49 »
Hi Kevin,

Actually, I love it!  In stop and go traffic, the temp stays right at ~180 or slightly below.  If I sit at idle for a long period of time, the temp moves to ~185.  Once I start driving again, right back to less than 180.  I have not run the air conditioning yet.  Note: I also installed a new 75 degree thermostat (not 79)

It looks original, fit and overall finish is good.  The only real noticeable item is that the drain plug is on the drivers side vs pass side.

If I had to do it over again, I buy another one...

Bob

bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320

Malc

  • Guest
Re: Radiator
« Reply #28 on: May 04, 2005, 22:11:05 »
For those of you thinking about this one route to go is to have your radiator re cored. They do "silt up" after a few years and back flushing etc helps but will not cure the problem

I have had two radiators done this way, one for my BMW 2002tii and one for my rally car. In both cases I went for larger capacity cores
In both cases they have worked fine, the BM in stop start traffic runs at "normal" all the time and the rally car is "cool" even after a stage.

Companies like Serck Marston in the UK have a recoring service

And finally before blaming your radiator make sure that
Your antifreeze is good
Your fanbelt is at the right tension
Your fan is not damaged
Your water pump is in good shape (bearings, impeller etc)
Your hoses have not gone "hard"

Remember MB and other companies do test cars in extremes of temperature so the system is designed to cope with a wide range. However thats when its new  :)
Malc