Author Topic: Soft Top Gap  (Read 2945 times)

Mpgeslak

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Soft Top Gap
« on: November 14, 2021, 13:43:09 »
Hi All,

I am installing a soft top I purchased from GAHH.  The fit overall is good, but I have a gap over the windows between the frame and the rubber attached to canvas, which seems to be caused by the cross bar of the frame hitting the rubber.  I installed the rubber pieces wit the wide piece in the front per the instructions in the Tech Manual and posts I read in the forum.  I called GAHH and they said the wide part goes in the back.   

Did I install the rubber in the right direction, and if so any thoughts on why I have the gap?  Should the rubber be closer to the edge?

Also, I have tried to tighten the cables but they don’t seem to tighten much, is there a trick to it?

Thanks for any help!
1967 250SL

Pawel66

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #1 on: November 14, 2021, 19:31:47 »
Wide part in the front.

I think you have a gap because the frame rails caved in (an "elbow" issue). I am also not sure if the canvas is stretched enough.
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

Mpgeslak

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2021, 01:59:14 »
Thanks Pawel.  The “Elbow” happens when I lock the top in the front and isn’t there when it is not locked, is there a way to prevent this?   To stretch it further I feel like it would too far over the windows.
1967 250SL

Pawel66

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #3 on: November 15, 2021, 06:51:23 »
When you are raising the soft top the frame is straight, but when you want to reach the anchor points in window frame, they are too far and the soft top frame gets the "elbow"?
 
I have a very similar issue. From what I have read on the forum it is caused by wrong soft top placement vs. frame - too close or too far (but it is always good to study yourself so that you make sure all all the advise is understood correctly and fits your case). In my case I also have impression that moving the soft top slightly will make it impossible to raise it and lock.

Another point is that these frames get worn and worn hinges allow this kind of gap. Getting rid of play in hinges requires major work to overhaul the frame.

Net net I think I will try adjustment of soft top positioning this winter. And I also could use a piece of further advise on this.

The PO of my car made new holes for the strips holding weather seals so that the weather seals are straight and there is no gap, but the frame has an "elbow". This is, however, a "barbarian" way of fixing this...
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

Mpgeslak

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #4 on: November 15, 2021, 16:32:10 »
Hi Pawel,

Yes, sounds like we have the same problem!

I have tried moving the frame as described in the Tech manual.  Seems I need to move it forward to get the pins in the front of the top closer to the holes, but this still left the pins just short of the holes and the only way to get the pins in the holes is with the V.  I have attached a photo of the frame when the pins are not in the holes and it is straight.
1967 250SL

Pawel66

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #5 on: November 15, 2021, 17:48:12 »
Yes, it is the same issue we have.

The pins seem too far from the frame holes to move the soft top so that they fit. Even if you do, locking the rear hook seems problematic...

I was to tackle this this winter, maybe someone will chime in with a silver bullet...
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

Mpgeslak

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #6 on: November 15, 2021, 19:46:02 »
I just tried adding shims.  To make a difference I need about 8mm to 10mm of shims which doesn’t seem right.

I have read through a lot of posts and I do see others with a similar issue, but I didn’t find any answers.
1967 250SL

Pawel66

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #7 on: November 15, 2021, 21:39:18 »
If I could get it to work with 10mm of shims - I would do it. Fortunately these shims are easy to fabricate.
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

Mpgeslak

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #8 on: November 15, 2021, 22:34:56 »
To test it I used some large washers and with tat many shims it makes it hard to close the back of the top.  Seems like a lot to me, has anyone else used this many?
1967 250SL

Mpgeslak

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #9 on: November 16, 2021, 14:55:57 »
Back to my original post, am I correct that the thick part of the rubbers in the attached photo goes in the front?
1967 250SL

Mpgeslak

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #10 on: November 17, 2021, 01:11:23 »
Anyone have any additional thoughts on this, all help appreciated!
1967 250SL

DaveB

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #11 on: November 17, 2021, 03:00:38 »
The parts book image suggests yes the thicker part goes in front, assuming it's part number 13.
DaveB
'65 US 230sl 4-speed, DB190

Mpgeslak

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #12 on: November 17, 2021, 03:17:42 »
Thanks Dave.  I am going with the wide part in the front.

Now just need to solve the V under the window.  Seems only way to get rid of it is with shims of nearly 10mm, which also seems necessary to make the windows fit.  I followed the approach of fitting the hardtop first and then the soft top.   Anyone have any insights on whether this is too much?
1967 250SL

Pawel66

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #13 on: November 17, 2021, 07:19:14 »
Yes, the fitting order is:
- doors to chassis
- glass to hardtop.
- soft top to glass
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

DaveB

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #14 on: November 17, 2021, 22:13:06 »
Gernold at SL-Tech would know the best solution.
DaveB
'65 US 230sl 4-speed, DB190

Mpgeslak

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #15 on: November 18, 2021, 02:20:25 »
Update:

I spent the day working on the fit of the soft top to the windows, I had previously fit the windows to the hardtop per instructions in the tech manual.

What I found was I needed to add 4 additional shims to each side to get to the soft top to fit the windows, I now have about 9mm of shims.  This seems to have addressed most but not all of the v and most of athe gap above the windows.   The new problem caused by the shims is that the back bow doesn’t fit as well as it did.   I also have  bit of gap behind the B pillar, which I understand is by design for air flow?

I am thinking the back bow may get a bit better as the fabric stretches?  Thoughts?
1967 250SL

Pawel66

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #16 on: November 18, 2021, 07:10:44 »
Needed to modify the post. "I am really NOT sure" should have been there :)

I am really not sure about this, I am away from the car, but just to check:
- I have the impression the rear bow can be a bit adjusted. Is there an oblong sot for screws holding it, when you open it and place upright you can see if it is there.
- gaps behind the B pillar - you mean between the bottom soft top edge and the wing? Then yes, I think this is for the airflow.
- yes, I think to some degree the fabric will stretch, especially if previously it was not very tight
« Last Edit: November 18, 2021, 22:58:56 by Pawel66 »
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

johnk

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #17 on: November 18, 2021, 20:54:38 »
How difficult did you find it to fit the soft top yourself separate from the gap issue?  I will be working on my soft top as soon as I finish the hard top.
John Krystowski
Avon Ohio
1968 Euro 280sl under restoration
2016 Jag F-Type R sold june 2021
1950 Alfa Romeo 6C 2500 SS For sale
2008 E350
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Mpgeslak

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #18 on: November 19, 2021, 00:21:00 »
Hi Pawel,
-  not sure I follow on the rear bow adjustment.  Is this on the bow itself or the latch?
-  on the airflow, yes between edge and the wing right behind the B pillar

Hi John,

Overall I would say it wasn’t too difficult a job.  I followed the instructions in the Tech manual which were great.   By far the most difficult part was adjusting the frame to fit the windows.  In my case it required about as many shims as could possibly fit under the frame!  I wish I had paid more attention to this before I put the fabric on.   I also found getting the front part properly stretched isn’t easy, I am still not happy with that part.   
1967 250SL

Pawel66

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #19 on: November 19, 2021, 06:22:13 »
Hi Pawel,
-  not sure I follow on the rear bow adjustment.  Is this on the bow itself or the latch?
-  on the airflow, yes between edge and the wing right behind the B pillar
Bow itself. I will take a look tonight, maybe I am wrong.
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

Pawel66

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Re: Soft Top Gap
« Reply #20 on: November 20, 2021, 16:21:28 »
I have never tried it, but it looks like these screws may be adjustable.
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class