Door seals

[johnk]

I installed URO Parts door seals around my doors and you have to slam them real hard to shut. The catch point seems to be under the doors between the door and the rocker panel.

Any one else have this issue?  Not sure if it goes away after a while or if I need to order the Mercedes seals.

Thanks folks.

John

[Tomnistuff]

Hi johnk,

I too bought URO door seals for my Pagoda restoration.  The passenger seal (right side for me) works fine.

The driver's door seal has never allowed the door to close correctly.  I feels stiff after just a little compression.  Maybe the door was not quite hung right but I've never been able to make it better.  It can only be closed completely (latched) with the door "stand-off" still 1/4 inch from flush in the back near the striker.  The only way I could get the door flush with the rear fender was to completely remove the door seal.  A note of interest is that, even with the seal removed, my first door-to-car contact point is between the metal lower door panel trim piece (groove that the door panel sits in) and the lower inner chrome trim that covers the wiring harness that runs to the rear of the car from under the driver's foot well.  That first contact point occurs at an exactly flush condition between the door skin and the rear fender.  In other words, the door thickness is exactly the same as the depth of the door opening in the body.

I bought a driver's door seal from the SLS-hh.de website in Germany but have not yet installed it.  They offer two different seal qualities.  I bought the more expensive one.  I'm still removing 3M door seal adhesive to give myself the best chance of success when I install the new seal.  The new seal is not an MB seal, according to SLS.  I'm not sure there is such a thing any more.  It, according to SLS, is a German-made seal using the original MB seal molding tools and the original MB seal compound formula.  It is definitely softer (to squeeze by hand) than is the URO seal that I removed.  I'm sorry I cannot really help you until I install my new one, which will be a few days.

For me, the driver's door seal has been a real frustration since the completion of my restoration.

Good luck to you.

Tom Kizer

[johnk]

Thanks Tom

Please let me know if the new seal is better. I hate to spend $150 or whatever it is for a new Mercedes’ seal and find out it’s no better.

[Pawel66]

I have never come across original rubber part from MB that would not fit. In general - it is best to buy all rubber from MB, unless price is really prohibitive.

I think this is the case now: I have the impression last time I checked theses seals were not available. I looked today and they now are available, just very expensive - ca EUR 700 per piece. Prohibitive for me.

There were a lot of posts on the Forum on this topic with various suppliers discussed. Not all of them supply seals with fit issues, as I recall.

[UJJ]

I have to agree with Pawel: Rubber parts from MB. I installed those door seals many years ago, bought from the classic center. I have no issues whatsoever.
I did the same with all window seals etc. with the same result. You pay a little bit extra -10% for a club member, but you only buy it ONCE.
Best, Urban

[johnk]

Thanks gents. I may try the Sls  version that Tom bought if the MB seal is too expensive.

[Pawel66]

I think I bought mine from SLS as they were not available from Mercedes. They are ok, as far as I remember.

I also recently bought the rear bottom seal for hard top at SLS and the fit was ok. In Mercedes it was close to EUR 1k.

[lreppond]

I recently had the rubber seal around my trunk replaced.  It was sourced from MB.  At first I had a hell of a time closing the trunk.  It had to be firmly slammed to catch.  Over the last six months however, it has become slightly easier to close.  The upside, however, is the the seal between the trunk and lid is 100% water tight. 

[johnk]

I ended up ordering the door seals from
My MB dealer today @$200 each. The parts guy who I’ve come to trust said that was at a very very generous pricing and they are coming from Germany. Authentic classics who is generally reasonable has them listed for $700 each.  I guess I should feel lucky?

[dirkbalter]

John, please let us know how these work out and if it’s worth it?
Thank you.

[Pawel66]

I ended up ordering the door seals from
My MB dealer today @$200 each. The parts guy who I’ve come to trust said that was at a very very generous pricing and they are coming from Germany. Authentic classics who is generally reasonable has them listed for $700 each.  I guess I should feel lucky?

Very lucky! As I said, they are EUR 700. I hope you get them for the money they promised.

[Pinder]

I used the URO ones with no issues on both my cars.  the are stiff at first but after a year they form well.

[johnk]

That’s promising thanks.

[dirkbalter]

John,
before I saw your thread, I bought the labeled “original” door seals from SLS. It got me worried. The classic center quoted me close to $400 for a door seal and I wasn’t ready to pay that. You got a deal. That why I was wondering if they feel or are different.
 Thanks

[JohnnyC]

Greetings, I just ordered door seals from MB Classics.  Not OEM, but OE (if there is a difference.)  $168 Euros for the set, left/right.  Also ordered the trunk seal (OE) for $90 Euro.  MCC in Irvine wanted $500 USD for each door and $550 for the trunk seal..., robbery in my opinion. Guess we'll find out how the MB Classics fit in the near future.

Cheers and God Bless,
JohnnyC.

[johnk]

It’s a little late for This post but hopefully still
Use full. As some of you expected when I went to The Mercedes dealer to pick up my door seals I was told that Mercedes had just double the price to $400 each and of course they didn’t order of them for me. So I went to Bud’s Benz and order their supposedly OEM non-Mercedes door seals for $200 each and now a month later they just arrived. Luckily in the meantime I spent a little time fussing with the top rear corners of my euro seals that cost me $30 and now the doors close perfectly.  The hang up was the top rear of the seal but once ii adjusted that it closed great, saving me $340.

[Benz Dr.]

URO  =  You Replace Often

[Shvegel]

Dan,
Especially if it is rubber.  There suspensions stuff is a nightmare.

[johnk]

AlexD is having to replace all
Of his MB suspension rubber as it’s shot in less than ten years. Are we sure the MB parts are that much better?

I went with original suspension rubbers but for seven times the price I thought I could replace the door seals early if needed. It’s not that bad of a job.

[Pinder]

The euro seals worked fine for me. They were very wallet friendly and as its an easy replacement even if you  had to do it again at least you know they will be new again. Its rubber. it will crack evently or fail. Ive had mine on for 7 years or so and they look like new.