Author Topic: Has anyone seen this 'fix' on the clock - what should I do here?  (Read 959 times)

RichardPercival

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Wonder if anyone has seen a clock 'fixed' in this way or done it themselves?

When I bought the car I was told the clock didn't work and for the last 6 months it hasn't - the previous sale of it in 2022 on BAT also said the clock was not functioning. I removed the glovebox and then the bracket behind the clock ready to take it out and lo and behold it starts ticking and the electromagnet rewinding every 4 mins or so!?

I set it and let it run for an hour and it seems to keep correct time. However I am unable to unplug the power after removing the bracket as it appears to not have a cable attached but welded onto the three pins.

I was also trying to remove the radio as this is an early car and so the clock is rather in the way. I think I can still get all that out without messing with the clock but need advice on how to remove the slot nuts from the front of the Becker holding the metal dash plate on - so not sure if I should just try to put the clock back, or if as I think I need to cut this somehow and set it up properly with a removable cable if those are available.
Does anyone have experience of this or advice? Also not sure if when soldering this they also soldered over the fuse in the clock.

Thanks,
Rich


1966 Mercedes 230SL (Euro model)

Duncan200

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It appears you clocks electrical connection is missing the Bakelite plug that surrounds the 3 pins, see pic.

You should be able to note the 3 wire locations of those pins and slide them off with a flat blade screwdriver.

I’ve also attached a couple of pics of a loose plug to give you the idea.

In regards to your radio, you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to undo the nuts that secure it to the fascia.

Hope this helps?

Doug

1966 MB 230SL DB 717 4sp Australian Delivered Matching Numbers Car. One day it will be back on the road in all its glory.
2000 MB CLK430 Convertible
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Pawel66

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I think that for the clock you just need to buy the connector housing, pick one from here: https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/Connectors

Pins are soldered to the wires, as it seems, so you just need to locate them in the right spots.
Pawel

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badali

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Before you take the wires off disconnect the battery.  One wire is hot...
Brad

1961 220 Sb
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lpeterssen

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W113 connector pin arrangement
« Reply #4 on: April 08, 2024, 10:50:35 »
Dear Richard

As already mentioned by other members, be aware that lead red/yellow is hot all the time and is a NON FUSEED circuit, so you can do a lot of damage to wiring if that pin touches ground accidentally.

Here after just for your reference a photo of how the pins should be arranged inside the 4 pin female bakelite connector.

The connector shown is an early style with screws, but you can of course use a newer one model with same number of pins or in the worst case scenario buy a 6 pin connector housing and play with pin position inside.

Best regards
Eng.Leonardo Peterssen
Www.wiredoktor.com



lpeterssen

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Previous photo shows only one red lead and one brown line.  In your case you have two lines on each of these pins, do not worry the pin arrangement has the same layout for you.
« Last Edit: April 08, 2024, 12:23:20 by lpeterssen »

RichardPercival

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Thanks so much all!

I disconnected the battery and was able to see that in fact the wires weren't soldered onto the pins - it would seem the black plug case broke at some point and they'd just left the female connectors on the pins with no protection.

I was able to remove them and have received a new plug - think I may be able to just slide the female pin connectors into the new plastic case (I don't actually have a soldering iron lol)
The solution to the radio was actually circlip pliers that were narrow enough to lodge in the nuts. Once started I could just use a small flat headed screwdriver to turn them :)
Thanks,
Rich


1966 Mercedes 230SL (Euro model)