VDO Quartz Clock

[JimVillers]

I bought a replacement VDO quartz clock (model 370-301) with the intent of using it in my 190SL but thought that it might look better in my 230SL and work much better than my current clock.  I thought that someone else might be interested.  They say that their stock is very limited and that VDO no longer manufactures this item.  It cost $110 from Vechicle Controls http://www.vehiclecontrols.com/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=739&cat=%3Cb%3EALL%3C%2Fb%3E+Clocks#

Here is what it looks like:

Jim Villers
190SL, 230SL 5-Speed, 190E 2.3-16 Kompressor

[Jonny B]

If you are going the show route, keep in mind that this is not a look alike for the 113 cars. I had my clock changed over to quartz by Palo Alto, that way I kept the original face, and the more pointed chrome bezel (not the rounded over one as on the later cars), and it keeps dead on time.

Cost was US$190 plus 10 or so for ship and handle

Jonny B
1967 250SL Auto

[Cees Klumper]

I also have a VDO quartz clock to replace my defect original one. However, contrary to yours, mine has the correct markings and the only thing identifying it as a non-original one is the print "quartz zeit" in much smaller typeface than in your photo. It also has the same knob as original to adjust the hands.
I bought this clock for about the same amount you paid at the Veterama in Germany about two years ago.

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[n/a]

My clock is missing the power socket in the back that connects it to power. Can anyone help me with the part #?

Louis 70 280sl Red Auto

[n/a]

quote:Originally posted by ll2002

My clock is missing the power socket in the back that connects it to power. Can anyone help me with the part #?  Also, is there a way to connect it to power without then socket?

Louis 70 280sl Red Auto

Louis 70 280sl Red Auto

[mdsalemi]

It should be noted that Palo Alto Speedometer (and I'm sure their competitors as well) can install a quartz movement in a regular 113 electro-mechanical clock.  When I had it done a few years back it cost about $100.  No changes to the face at all--it does not say quartz--but it works well.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored

[Naj ✝︎]

Louis,
 

quote:My clock is missing the power socket in the back that connects it to power. Can anyone help me with the part #?

I used a 014 545 8525. It comes with an end cap which you can easily cut off. You'll know what I mean when you see it.

Do your wire ends have the pin bushings? They do not come with the plug but have to be bought separately and soldered on.

naj

65 230SL
68 280SL

[66andBlue]

The clock described by Cees - or at least a similar one - is currently for sale on eBay (Item number: 4568687052)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4568687052&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIThttp://

Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic

[J. Huber]

Not sure about the $700 part. It appears to be the same quartz type that is available through our suppliers (and I think what Cees was referring to)... I have one. Keeps perfect time. I paid 175 from Miller's in about 1998 but I see prices have gone up. 3 something now I believe.

Still a very good price at the moment...

James
63 230SL

[n/a]

I have the clock; no sure if it works at the moment because I have not been able to power it up. I do not have the socket or the pin bushings. I want to check out the clock first before I consider a quartz modification. No matter what, I still need something to connect the power to the clock. I would like to know which pin in the back of the clock is for power and which one is for ground to at least test it out.

Louis 70 280sl Red Auto

[J. Huber]

Hi Louis, sorry I derailed your quest for info. All I can add is, does the back of your clock resemble that one on Ebay? Three prongs? Two on top one on bottom? If so, the picture of the back might be helpful. It shows the ground and leads pretty clearly.

James
63 230SL

[Dick M]

My orignal clock would run fast, run slow and stop and start without cause.  I sent it to Jacobs Automotive Clock Co. in Oakland, CA.  For $89 he rebuilt it and made it look and run just like new.

Dick M
1970 280SL

[n/a]

Hi James,

Need a little help! Do you think the one contact with a "B" on top of it the positive? I believe the one at the bottom is the ground. What about the other contact on top that has something like a letter "U" next to it?

Louis 70 280sl Red Auto

[J. Huber]

Hi Louis,

You know I really can't say. I'd be willing to guess that B is a direct line to the battery (so clock runs all the time). But really not sure. Anyone else?

James
63 230SL

[Naj ✝︎]

Louis,
 

quote:Do you think the one contact with a "B" on top of it the positive? I believe the one at the bottom is the ground. What about the other contact on top that has something like a letter "U" next to it

Yes, I believe the 'B' is the live terminal and 'U' is for the illumination lamp. There will also be a 4th steel pin which correctly locates the plug.

I would try jumper leads positive to the U terminal and negative to ground to see if the light works. Then positive to B to see if it starts the clock.

naj

65 230SL
68 280SL

[n/a]

Naj,

Thank you for your help. I guess the light should be connect to the "light" circuit so that it would only come on when the headlights are turned on. Will give it a try this weekend.

Louis 70 280sl Red Auto

[Naj ✝︎]

Louis,
 

quote:I guess the light should be connect to the "light" circuit so that it would only come on when the headlights are turned on.

Yes

naj

65 230SL
68 280SL