Author Topic: 3.27 rear end conversion: OIL CONNECTION TUBE! (Read 9375 times)

Tom Colitt · « **on:** October 10, 2005, 11:59:29 »

Hi

What do people use to cap off the tube connecting the differential housing to the fixed axle tube? This design was specific to the 3.27 and other V8 Mercedes' and it interferes within the confines of the Pagoda, now that I want to switch rear ends. Is there a Mercedes part (what model cars and years) that I can get this part off?

Thanks , Tom

Tom Colitt

TheEngineer · « **Reply #1 on:** October 10, 2005, 12:12:15 »

Buy two oil drain plugs. The old style. p/n 130-997-00-32 and seal ring 915035-000025

Tom Colitt · « **Reply #2 on:** October 10, 2005, 19:59:52 »

Thanks very much.

I think I should be able to get to those openings after I've installed the rear end into the Pagoda with the tube removed? That way i can continue while I wait for the parts.

The tube looks like it's designed to transfer oil from the gear box to the axle tube. Is this a cooling measure because of the increased load on the v8s.

Regards, Tom

Tom Colitt

ja17 · « **Reply #3 on:** October 10, 2005, 20:43:45 »

Hello Tom,

Check the axle rotational free play before installing the rear end. About half these units out of the V8s have a badly worn yoke holding the spider gears. The pin which holds the gears wears its mounting holes in the casting oblong, creating excessive rotational free play. The slop will cause a clunking acceleration/deacceleration situation.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

Ben · « **Reply #4 on:** October 11, 2005, 01:57:05 »

quote:
The slop will cause a clunking acceleration/deacceleration situation

..........I think I have this issue growing !

Any links to diagrams so I know what to look for ?

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.

ja17 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 11, 2005, 04:58:21 »

Hello Ben,
First you need to find out where the play is comming from. Lift one rear wheel off the ground. make sure the car is in gear or the park. with the emergency brake off. See how much rotation back and fourth the wheel moves before the driveshaft moves. Some normal gear wear will account for some play. If you have a lot you may have a driveshft problem or a oblong worn casting hole in the differential. Worn splines on the output flange of the transmission can also cause extra play further up the driveline. There is a spec for this play at the wheels somewhere I'll try to find it. I also have a picture I can post soon.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

Ben · « **Reply #6 on:** October 11, 2005, 07:02:37 »

Excellent Joe.........that'd be great !

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.

Ricardo · « **Reply #7 on:** October 11, 2005, 08:15:22 »

Hey Joe
Further to this discussion on rear ends, I'm wondering if sedans provide the same rear axle assemblies other than the 3.27 from the 4.5 ?
Can we swap out other rear ends from say 250se's and do they have the same ratio's available, or is the track dimension different?
thanks
Richard

ja17 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 11, 2005, 10:08:03 »

Hello Recardo,
The V8s are the only ones with the 3.27 ratio. The lowest other ratio is a 3.69. Cees has the 3.69 in his W113.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

Ricardo · « **Reply #9 on:** October 11, 2005, 10:43:56 »

Joe
Actually... I too have a 3.69 on my euro '67, but I suspect perhaps major wear as you've described and wondered if you can replace the whole axle from a sedan. I'd rather R&R an axle and have it ready, before pulling my still driving one, that needs everything anyway.
Plus I know where to find a parts 250se sedan, that I'm planing to buy for it's low mile engine and maybe it's rear axle too[:p]
Richard

Tom Colitt · « **Reply #10 on:** October 11, 2005, 10:55:50 »

Thanks Joe

I'll check out the play. I know for sure that the differential supporting arm's rubber bushing was gone and even the arm was starting to get fairly damaged itself so that I'll swap it with my W113 part which is a lighter weight casting.

I guess that could be an indication that there were pretty high forces at work in this particular donor car. Or the disintegration of the supporting arm may have taken the load off the pinion gear (wishing thinking, I'm sure)

Tom Colitt

Tom Colitt · « **Reply #11 on:** October 11, 2005, 11:06:08 »

Hi Ricardo

The 250SE rear ends should work fine as they all have the same basic set-up, track, etc. It's just a question of disk vs. drum brakes which you should be able to swap if necessary. I can't tell you what the 250SE gear ratios were, but since the engine is less powerful than the 280SEs, it stands to reason that it should be near the 3.69 of the Euro 280SLs. The numbers stamped into the bottom of the differential will tell you for sure (a flat, machined strip on the bottom of the housing) It'll be dirty and usually oily.

Tom Colitt

Tom Colitt · « **Reply #12 on:** October 12, 2005, 18:24:34 »

Hi "Engineer"

Are we talking about the engine oil, M26 drain plugs that have an Allen head socket?

Does anyone know which early year Mercedes models these came on? I think I'll find them quicker at our local salvage yards than ordering them.

I checked the play as recommended by Joe Alexander and it is maybe double the amount of play as my old intact axle (about 1mm plus at the outer axle hub). I'm thinking that is not excessive, but I really have no specs on this.

Tom Colitt

ja17 · « **Reply #13 on:** October 13, 2005, 04:30:26 »

Hello Tom,
It sounds like your axle is ok. You can find the early drain plugs up through 1973.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

TheEngineer · « **Reply #14 on:** October 13, 2005, 10:45:03 »

Yes Tom, the drainplug with the 14 mm internal hex. But if you take the one your neighbor has, out from his car, put at least a cork in it so he doesn't loose all his oil. And when you install it, use MB Sealing Compound A 002 989 47 20 10 or A 001 989 89 20 10 It's good stuff.

Tom Colitt · « **Reply #15 on:** October 13, 2005, 12:11:42 »

Thanks Guys

As usual you guys are great. I'm off to the yards. Hopefully today marks the day my Pagoda gets a new rear end. This sounds like an extreme makeover

Tom

Tom Colitt

TheEngineer · « **Reply #16 on:** October 13, 2005, 14:51:50 »

Tom: I had a hard time installing the compensating spring, even after I made a spring compressor out of a turnbuckle. But then I found out that I could drop the right side of the axle about four more inches by disconnecting the shock on that side. I put a block on the floor under the axle so that the axle would not bottom out against the internal mechanism but rather against the block. Then I put just one bolt in, on the bracket where the compensating spring rests on the outboard side. Then I could put the spring in easily and rotate the bracket into place, using a crowbar. Then I could insert the other bolt and tighten them both.
That spring is dangerous! And I am easily scared!
Maybe this picture helps. The wooden block is there to make the axle one solid piece. It is clamped using a threaded rod. Without it, the axle is like a slinky.

A Dalton · « **Reply #17 on:** October 13, 2005, 18:47:41 »

You may already know these simple install tips, but I will post in case any may be of assistance...

Set the hanger at 90 degrees to the left axle tube before tighening pivot cinch bolts.
Clean the vent cap filter.
Fill with lube to pinky insertion and with axle tubes level.
There is a simple home made measuring tool in the archieves to centralize the axle with cross strut . Spec is 36mm to right of chassis C/L, +/- 2mm . May want to use that.

Tom Colitt · « **Reply #18 on:** October 13, 2005, 21:14:18 »

Hi Engineer and A. Dalton

Thanks. I installed the comp. spring the way you did after I had put the axle into place with the right hand axle tube already up and over the exhaust system which was lowered just enough to get the brake backing plate up and over it. Diff. fluid was already filled for ease of access (2.5l).

I had also found (used) two diffent types of M26 plugs. One came from a standard M130 engine (external 14mm hex head) and the V8s seem to come with the 14mm Allen head. Either one will work.

Regards, Tom

Tom Colitt

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