Prioritizing Front End Work

[RickInTex]

I finally bit the bullet and got a diagnosis on what I need to get done to improve my ride and handling.  Or rather, my car's.  Ride has been a bit harsh, and I've noticed some sloppiness in steering, as well as a marginally scary "floating" quality at high speed.  What I've been told shouldn't be too surprising, I guess, since it appears none of this has been done before:  subframe and engine mounts, king-pins, shocks.  My mechanic will be getting back to me soon with some figures.

Questions:

1.  Is there a sensible sequence for doing these in stages, so as not to send my bank account into shock (no pun intended)?  

2.  Overall, what's a realistic cost estimate?  My mechanic is reasonable and trustworthy--just want to prepare myself.

3.  Other things to consider doing while down there?



Rick
Dallas TX
1967 250SL, 4-speed

[Vince Canepa]

The priority will depend on which are the worst items.  Motor mounts should not effect handling, so I would drop them down the list.

Vague handling at speed can also come from the rear.  Make sure to check the hanger mount bushing on the right side of the differential.  Check the cross-strut bushings also.  I think my front ends are gone through when the problem is at the rear.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

[A Dalton]

<<Make sure to check the hanger mount bushing on the right side of the differential.>>

VC.

 How did that new mount job come out???

[enochbell]

Parts should run you around $600, to accomplish that you will have to shop hard to get the Bilsteins under $300; and you may want to double check to see that you really need king pins as the more likely case is bad control arm bushings, which will need to be replaced (outer, at least) with a king pin anyway.  Repack wheel bearings while you are in there, also good time to renew brake lines if they are old.  The steering shock is cheap and easy, as well tie rods are inexpensive and easy to replace if needed, along with the center link and the other tie rod brace.  This adds another couple of hundred to parts and, aside from the alignment, are fairly straightforward if you are willing to crawl around under the car for a couple of days.

Best,

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

[ja17]

Hello Rick,
The front suspension should be first since it is more critical as far as safety.
Check your subframe mounts to see how far you need to get into the prject. This is a good workout. It can be done before or during these other operations.

The king pins, and upper and lower trunions are a lot of work but you can do one side at a time if you need to. The A-arms and their pivots would be checked at this time also.



Next the idler arm, tie rod end and drag link, check steering box play and leakage while you are here.

You can move on to the rear suspension if needed next.

A new set of Bilstein shocks and motor mounts will do wonders for ride quality.

Along the way align the front end and balance the tires after you are finished replacing front end parts.

As far as cost, it depends on what you need, the experience of your tech, and your local labor rate.

I can provide you with the factory times for flat rate on these jobs when I get home.

If you can do some work yourself or source better prices on parts you will save also. Supply your tech with as much information on the parts and procedures as you can when you take the car into his shop. Even if he does not use the information it will be available if he does. Your homework should save time and money.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[Chad]

May I throw in two cents and offer consideration for Koni shocks.  They were on my car when I bought it and the ride is quite sporting.

-CD-
1967 230SL, 113.042 10

[bjudd]

Rick: check out this posting on the same questions...note George Davis post at the bottom.

http://index.php?topic=4230,end

I just finished all this and I 'll email you from home when I look at the parts costs.

I got the bilstein's from mercedesparts.com for $69 ea.


bjudd
1969 280 SL 5 sp

[Vince Canepa]

Arthur - I finished my project at 4:00 AM October 29 and drove the car to our local MBCA section Driveway Mechanic Session at Jim Villers' home.  I've put several hundred miles on it since.  The car tracks like an arrow up to 100mph (we're running out of room to go higher here in SE Virginia) and the vibration issues are entirely gone.  I can't feel any vibration at all when I feel the passenger seat cushion at those speeds.  Now the problem is staying below the speed limit!!  A lot of my project was cosmetic as I show the car.  It looks beautiful!!  But you have to lay on the ground to see all my efforts!

I have one small problem - the brass tubes for the fuel tank expansion tank have started to weep vapor.  I suppose I must have loosened them in the plastic of the tank when I removed them.  I think I can seal them by thinning some Glyptal and letting capillary action draw it it.  I hear the new tanks are different.

Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack the thread.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

[ja17]

Hello Rick,

The factory book time for checking and overhauling the front suspension  is 5.4 hours. Add another 0.6 hr. for each front shock absorber and another 1.1 hr. for the tie rod and drag link work. Of coarse these times are for an experienced MB technician, with all the special tools, excellent working conditions, and performed when these cars were fairly new.      Plan on taking more time.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[Ben]

Guys how specifically can you check to see if you need motor mounts ?

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.

[Khurram Darugar]

Ben,
    Shine a flash light on the mounts themselves.  If they look cracked, depressed, frayed or the rubber looks like its lost structure in any way ..... it needs replacing.  Generally speaking the motor mount that need replacing get depressed from the center where the engine mount attaches.
Kay

Kay
Euro 280sl LHD Auto.

[RickInTex]

Thanks, everyone, for such detailed input.  As always, the collective experience of the group is an invaluable resource.

Rick
Dallas TX
1967 250SL, 4-speed

[Ben]

quote:Ben,
Shine a flash light on the mounts themselves. If they look cracked, depressed, frayed or the rubber looks like its lost structure in any way ..... it needs replacing. Generally speaking the motor mount that need replacing get depressed from the center where the engine mount attaches.
Kay

........thanks Kay !  Mine look to be in good shape having inspected them visually !

The rear end is a different story ! :?

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.