Timing chain tensioner 280 SL

[n/a]

Although we have a very good supply of 280SL parts here in Holland, it's impossible to get hold of a proper working timing chain tensioner. My SL specialist refuses to use the original MB part that is available from our German neighbour because of the very poor quality of the currently available part (leakages etc). They had very bad experiences with that particular part and currently prefer to use second hand tensioners from old donor engines. So far I have not come across an overhaul kit for the tensioner either. Does anyone in another part of the world have experiences with this part?

Thanks in advance

[ja17]

Hello mossel,

Yes the original chain tensioners are very durable. They are not prone to failure. There are no soft parts to wear out. Just clean everything up and be sure not to loose the small steel ball.

Make sure your timing chain is not worn out. If the tensioner is at the top of it's travel the chain may be bad.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[n/a]

Joe,

Thank you for your response. When I had the Cylinder head overhauled I decided to replace the chain, the chain sprockets and the cain slippers.

67 280SL

[rwmastel]

Mossel,

Hi.  The Search function is priceless:
http://index.php?topic=3525,tensioner

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[n/a]

Thanx, but none of these results answers my question.

quote:Originally posted by rwmastel

Mossel,

Hi.  The Search function is priceless:
http://index.php?topic=3525,tensioner

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

67 280SL

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by mossel

Thanx, but none of these results answers my question.

Sorry about that.  I guess my point was that tensioners that are thought to be bad might not be.  Why did you decide to replace this troublesome tensioner?  You might just want to take it apart, clean it, and use it.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[n/a]

No problem at all!
I want to replace the tensioner because although we have done a complete overhaul of the cylinder head, timing chain, sprockets and slipper (and cleaned the tensioner), the engine starts to make a little more rattling noise when it's fully warmed up (after 45 min). Because it might be a worn tensioner, replacing the tensioner with a new one is a logical thing to do but because the original MB part is faulty, that won't improve stuff at all. As the tolerances of the parts are extremely critical, it might be that when the engine oil is completely warmed up and therefore thinner, the oil pressure in the tensioner might be a little to low to hold the perfect tension. So the only thing that makes sense to me is replace it or find an overhaul kit.

quote:Originally posted by rwmastel

quote:Originally posted by mossel

Thanx, but none of these results answers my question.

Sorry about that.  I guess my point was that tensioners that are thought to be bad might not be.  Why did you decide to replace this troublesome tensioner?  You might just want to take it apart, clean it, and use it.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

67 280SL

[Vince Canepa]

Is it really true that a new tensioner from M-B is sub-standard?  I just bought a lot of parts from M-B, though no chain tensioner was in the group, and everything was top quality.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

[n/a]

Yes, it's really true.

quote:Originally posted by Vince Canepa

Is it really true that a new tensioner from M-B is sub-standard?  I just bought a lot of parts from M-B, though no chain tensioner was in the group, and everything was top quality.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

67 280SL

[A Dalton]

I would expect a tensioner that fails to hold pressure to rattle at start-up vs running warm.  If it were to not hold pressure at warm temps , then it would retract for the next cold start.  That is the indication of a bad tensioner and that is why the later ones have a ratchet type lock feature. [ to hold last pin position ]
 You may want to look into valve train components and valve adjustments before diagosing the tensioner to be bad. You may also want to check tensioner position before start up.

 I would also look at the thrust bushing at the tach drive gear assembly .  A worn one allows the gear and shaft assembly to rattle up/down from the pressures caused by the cut of the gears.  This only take 1 min to check and is another possible for such a condition....

[Raymond]

The mechanic I use when I don't do it myself, has not seen a problem with the MB Parts.  Although he says they seldom need replacing.  He's been working on Pagodas since they were under warranty and has his own '71.

I replaced my chain tensioner with a new one from MB 1,400 miles ago and so far it's fine.

Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe