Author Topic: Idiot's guide to alternator replacement  (Read 12115 times)

userzweig

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Idiot's guide to alternator replacement
« on: December 30, 2005, 18:11:44 »
I read in the forum that replacing an alternator on my '71 280sl should take about an hour or so, but it took me 3 days (hence the title), so I thought I'd share a couple of details with others who want to try.

It was supposed to be easy because I have an a/c unit, so the bracket is at the top of the engine.

First, note that you will need an impact wrench to get the pulley off the old alternator so that it can go on the new one.  I recommend getting the new alternator from a local dealer who can take the old one in trade and switch the pulley to the new one.  Also note that when you switch the pulley, there is a little nub on the shaft of the new alternator which seems to be too big for the slot in the pulley, but the nub is actually removable and can be adjusted for a snug fit.

Incidentally, I upgraded the alternator from 35 to 55 watts.  I had a bosch AL64X and I got a bosch 002 154 4602 80 (this was for my '71 280-sl), and it fit perfectly once I figured out that the nub on the shaft was adjustable.

Disconnect one of the battery leads before you start.

First, open the radiator reservoir to release pressure, and disconnect the hose from the reservoir to the radiator.  This will give you more room.

Also, unplug the wiring harness from the alternator so you can see the nut on the back of the long mounting bolt (there's a small retaining clip to loosen first), and also disconnect the b+ lead.

Then, loosen the two mounting bolts so you can turn the belt tensioner, and loosen the belt tension so the belt becomes pretty limp.  Then, you can remove the top mounting bolt and slip off the belt, and finally remove the bottom bolt and the alternator (note that the bottom bolt has a nut on the back).

There's a spark suppressor on the back of the old alternator, and you can switch that to the new one after you use an impact wrench to loosen the pulley bolt and swap the pulley.

There's a trick to lining up the holes when putting the alternator back on.  You need to get a a couple of bolts approximately the same diameter as the long mounting bolt, with one a couple of inches shorter and the other a little longer.  This is because it's kind of tough to line up mounting holes of the new alternator with the holes in the bracket.  

It's much easier to line up the bracket and the alternator's bottom hole from the back.  So, for starters, I loosely attached the top of the new alternator, and then I wiggled it into the bracket and felt around with a small screwdriver through back hole of the mounting bracket until I found the back mounting hole of the alternator.  Then, I removed the screwdriver and tried to stick in the short bolt from the back (more wiggling).  Once the short bolt  found its way into the alternator, I removed it and stuck in the extra long bolt, which eventually (with a little more wiggling) found its way through the alternator and then finally stuck its nose out of the front of the mounting bracket!

Once everything is perfectly aligned, you insert the actual long mounting bolt in the front mounting hole and pull out the long test bolt as you push the mounting bolt through.

Then, reconnect the harness (and slip on its retaining clip), reconnect b+ (you can use either terminal), tighten everything up, readjust the belt tension (1/2" when pressed with thumb), reconnect the battery and the radiator overflow hose, and then start 'er up!  Hopefully, the little red battery light will go out now!

Bruce
« Last Edit: December 30, 2005, 18:21:07 by userzweig »

Kenneth Gear

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Re: Idiot's guide to alternator replacement
« Reply #1 on: December 30, 2005, 20:22:36 »
Great description and tips!  It is this type of post that makes this group and this site so valuable.

After reading your post, I almost wish my alternator would die on me so I could fix it....From one idiot to another.. thank you!

Ken G
1971 280 SL
Silver/red
Ken G
1971 280 SL Silver/red

userzweig

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Re: Idiot's guide to alternator replacement
« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2006, 14:19:18 »
quote:
Originally posted by Kgear

Great description and tips!  It is this type of post that makes this group and this site so valuable.

After reading your post, I almost wish my alternator would die on me so I could fix it....From one idiot to another.. thank you!

Ken G
1971 280 SL
Silver/red



Thanks for the encouragement.  The main thing I learned is that you need to have a great light that can get down into those dark corners.  I bought a couple of clip-on LED's that are easy to position, and I keep them in the passenger compartment for interior lights when I'm not working on the car.

It sure it nice to have the extra 20 watts, by the way -- I have some minor shorts when it rains, and I can really sense the difference when the lights, wipers and defroster are all running!
« Last Edit: January 02, 2006, 14:22:49 by userzweig »

TheEngineer

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Re: Idiot's guide to alternator replacement
« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2006, 12:45:25 »
You may not believe this, but there are some people who, after a four year apprenticeship, call themselves automobile mechanics. Some of those people actually know how to replace an alternator and it'd take them less time than you spent writing your story. The good news is, that after you have done it a few times, you'll become faster. I hope that you appreciated that your alternator is on top because you have A/C. That makes it sooo much easier. BTW use a tapered punch to line up the hole. Did you know that the 55 Amp alternator uses a different fan/pulley? It's cast aluminum instead of formed steel. Happy New Year!
« Last Edit: January 03, 2006, 12:46:47 by theengineer »
'69 280SL,Signal Red, 09 cam, License BB-59U
'67 230SL, 113042-10-017463 (sld)
'50 Jaguar Roadster XK120, #670.318 (sld)
tired engineer, West-Seattle,WA

userzweig

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Re: Idiot's guide to alternator replacement
« Reply #4 on: January 10, 2006, 19:56:57 »
quote:
Originally posted by theengineer

You may not believe this, but there are some people who, after a four year apprenticeship, call themselves automobile mechanics. Some of those people actually know how to replace an alternator and it'd take them less time than you spent writing your story. The good news is, that after you have done it a few times, you'll become faster. I hope that you appreciated that your alternator is on top because you have A/C. That makes it sooo much easier. BTW use a tapered punch to line up the hole. Did you know that the 55 Amp alternator uses a different fan/pulley? It's cast aluminum instead of formed steel. Happy New Year!



That's a good idea about the tapered punch!

By the way, do you know where I could find a new aluminum pulley?  Caliber does not have them -- they sent me the new alternator with no pulley.

If I can find an aluminum pulley, I should be able to do the replacement in under an hour (especially with the tapered punch trick)!

Thanks,

Bruce

TheEngineer

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Re: Idiot's guide to alternator replacement
« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2006, 11:19:43 »
Userzweig: I got my 55 amp alternator from Benz Friendz for $50 (this is not a spelling error) here in Seattle. It had the aluminum fan on it. The V-belt pulley itself is of course steel. The 55 Ampp alternator is very common, because it is used on all other early car models. Realisticly, if you are now running the sheet metal fan and the alternator is installed already, leave it alone. In operation, an alternator only charges at full output when the battery voltage is very low, like maybe 10volts. Even then, the voltage comes up very fast and the alternator output drops rapidly. So does the thermal load on the alternator. On the 35 amp alternator the charging curve is flatter, meaning that it charges nearly as much as the 55 amp unit when the battery voltage is like 12 volts. Therefore, in actual operation, there is little difference between the cooling requirements of the 35 amp alternator and the 55 amp one. You can connect a digital voltmeter anywhere and read out the actual system voltage while you drive. Just tape the voltmeter to the windshield wipers. You can also connect an ammeter, but use a shunt, because starter current is like 150 amps.
'69 280SL,Signal Red, 09 cam, License BB-59U
'67 230SL, 113042-10-017463 (sld)
'50 Jaguar Roadster XK120, #670.318 (sld)
tired engineer, West-Seattle,WA

Bob G ✝︎

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Re: Idiot's guide to alternator replacement
« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2006, 14:23:03 »
What is the correct belt to use with the Alternator with top bracket? I btried to fine the same belt when I replaced my alternnator and was given a Continial but in adjusting the new belt it almost came to the very top of the rod, so I put back the same old belt that was on it. If anyone knows a source for the correct alternator belt please let me know.
Thank You

Bob Geco