Heater access question.

[dldubois]

I'm in the process of replacing my leaking heater core.  I've removed the majority of my dash and am looking at the blower.

I've unbolted the blower but one piece of the cardboard duct (drivers side) is still in the way.  I've tried to remove but the wiper linkage seems to be binding it between it and the steering column.   I removed the tach and can't seem to figure out how to get it free.  Ideas?

Also should I be able to pull the blower straight out, or am I rolling it backwards to remove?

I figured now that I'm about to repaint the car (including dash) it would be good time to address.

Dana DuBois

1969 280sl auto
blue (906)
Corinth, TX

[jeffc280sl]

In order to remove the blower you need to first remove or slide the the distribution box out of the way towards the steering column.  . You don't need to remove the drivers side duct to remove the blower motor assembly.  There are 2 bolts which secure the duct to the blower.  Take those out. Once you have the passenger side duct un bolted and the 2 top and one lower blower bolts removed you can slide the blower out towards the passenger side footwell.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[enochbell]

Dana,

Jeff has the correct procedure, but I would suggest that you release the wiper linkage to get this job done.  It is not absolutely necessary, but I found that it was easier that way.  If your defroster distributor is as brittle as most are, then you need to be very careful not to mess it up.  Releasing the linkage lets you easily move (or remove) the distributor so that you have plenty of clearance when you slide the heater box to the passenger footwell.  And don't even think about removing the defroster box on the driver (LHD) side, they built the entire car around it.

Best,
g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

[dldubois]

I was able to get the blower out after figuring out I could access the nut on the blower's mount through the tunnel access hole.  I was able to get it out w/o taking my a/c out.

Unfortunately, I'm going to have to remove the A/C so I can access the core.  Any secrets to getting the a/c lines disconnected?  I've not been able to get leverage on them as of yet.  Wouldn't you want to remove them from the back of the unit?

thanks.

Dana DuBois

1969 280sl auto
blue (906)
Corinth, TX

[enochbell]

Dana,

I can't comment on the AC, but just another tip I learned too late to help me: The control cable connector for the heater core can be accessed through a grommet-covered hole in the upper firewall in the engine compartment.  Makes it much easier to connect/disconnect for this job.

Best,

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

[George Des]

Dana,

Removing the A/C lines from the back of the unit is very difficult to do while the unit is in the dash. I suggest you remove the lines only after properly de-pressurizing and pulling the unit back with the lines following through the firewall after you have disconnected them at the compressor and dryer.

George Des

[dldubois]

Thanks for all the input from this site.

I'm in the process of getting my car ready to be painted.  I was planning on stripping the dash and decided that it would be a good time to address the bypassed heater core.  The soldered ends had been broken loose and it would rattle around and you could see where it had been leaking around the valve.   My father (previous owner) stated his mechanic had bypassed it due the valve be faulty.   I ended up pulling and found a shrunken/brittle o-ring to be the issue.  $1.30 for 10 at Lowe's.   The core it self was just tested and cleaned at a shop today and will be all reinstalled by the weekend.

Looking forward using my heat next winter


Dana DuBois

1969 280sl auto
blue (906)
Corinth, TX